QUESTION: Hi,

I previously forwarded you an email about trimming instructions for the N.S. Pro 950GH shafts.  I forgot to mention that they will be installed in a Callaway X-22
model.  Also do I need to put lead weights at the tip to achieve a swingweight of D1-D2?

Thanks, Rubin

ANSWER: Hi Rubin,

Most golfers assume that there is one universal installation method for each manufacturer, each head model, and each shaft model. The reality is that every set installation should be calculated like a unique math equation to achieve the intended results. I strongly urge you to seek guidance from a skilled installer to insure that you attain the performance that you deserve.

Here’s the general answer:

N.S. Pro 950GH Trimming Instructions- Butt trim each shaft to the desired length. Do not tip trim.

The more accurate, specific answer becomes way more complicated. 

Here’s the best, most accurate answer:

N.S. Pro 950GH Trimming Instructions- Hosel designs are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Select the proper raw shaft flex and raw shaft length, based on the bottom of the hosel bore to the ground measurement, and butt trim each shaft to the desired length. Do not tip trim.

Selection of the proper raw shaft flex and raw shaft length is accomplished by calculating the bottom of the bore to the ground measurement, and then choosing the proper shaft based on this measurement.

The bottom of the bore to the ground is best calculated by measuring the total raw shaft length of a given iron shaft, and then a dry-fit installation of that given shaft and using the USGA 60 degree length measurement method, obtaining the raw club length. Subtraction of the raw shaft length from the raw club length leaves a remainder that is the bottom of the bore to the ground measurement. If you have a traditional set of shafts and you would like to achieve the stated flex that is labeled on the butt end of the shaft, and you have a traditional bottom of the bore to the ground measurement of 1″, then you will want to use the 37.5″ raw shaft length for your #5 iron. If however, you have a bottom of the bore to the ground measurement that is less or more than 1″, you will need to select a 38.0″ or 37.0″ raw shaft length for your #5 iron head to achieve the stated flex.

NOTE: This assumes that you are using a traditional set of 950GH shafts. Many of the OEMs (major manufacturers), utilize different raw length variations for their specific applications and thus each of our Authorized Installation Centers is required to know which variation supports the proper application.

I warned you that the specific answer to your question can be complicated.

Regarding your question of swingweight- most likely, you will need to carefully measure and then adjust your swingweight to your desired weight. Swingweight is best measured in its totality, meaning measured on a swingweight scale after the club has been installed. However, it is a good idea to understand that length, shaft weight, shaft balance, head weight, lie angle, grip weight, etc., all have an impact on the final swingweight. Depending on all of these factors, your set may need some weight adjustments to achieve your D1 or D2 swingweight. Ideally, selecting the proper head weight is the best method. However, if a small amount of weight is added securely and permanently to the tip end of the shaft, the head center of gravity, and the intended playing design of the head will not be sufficiently unbalanced.

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi,

I am ready to order a new set of irons with Nippon Shafts with a frequency of
3.5.

If this possible? German

 

ANSWER: Hi German,

Golfers, and clubmakers debate your question and often are confused as to what a 3.5 shaft flex really means.

The answer to your question is both YES and NO.

A frequency number of 3.5 is actually a rating of a shaft’s “butt frequency” or how a shaft measures with the butt of the shaft clamped in a frequency meter and then oscillated into motion with a given weight on its tip. This measurement does not measure the “totality” of how the shaft will play, since it is not measuring the stiffness of the shafts mid section and tip section.

Our shaft models, with regards to flex, are rated in their totality, meaning that a stiffness rating is applied to the overall flex of the butt, mid and tip portions of the shaft.

With regards to your question, many golfers use the 3.5 butt frequency number to mean a shaft that is very soft in flex, in the range of an ‘A’ flex or a ‘Senior’ flex.

Most all of our Authorized Installation Centers have the ability to install our shaft models to most any shaft flex or sub-flex that you desire. The major manufacturers also offer Nippon Shaft models in softer flex ranges, but do not quantify the flex in a numerical butt frequency rating.

For more information on this subject you might consider contacting one of our clubmakers. Also, on the top right hand corner of this page is a search box for several previous posts on this subject. If you type “butt frequency” in the search box, you will access more information.

Finally, one of our premium models, our NS PRO 8950GH, is available in an ‘A’ flex, through the Swing Science, Golfsmith, and Leaderboard Companies.

Regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hello,

I have a question.  I purchased a set of 1150GH shaft pulls from a set of irons,
4-PW.  The irons they were pulled from were actually about .5 inches over standard length.  Will I need to remove the grips and butt trim the shafts to the desired length, placing them in my 4-PW heads (which are the same heads as those they were pulled from) or can I just place the 4-PW pulled shafts into my 3-9 iron heads?  The overall length would be spot on for standard with this latter option.  

I wasn’t sure if this will achieve a hard step, or if it is fine and the overall
length on a butt trim only club is what really matters.

Thanks for your help in advance. Damien

 

ANSWER: Hi Damien,

Thanks for your note.

I always recommend having your clubs installed with factory new  shafts, and working with a skilled clubmaker to insure that you achieve the exact performance that you want, and deserve. It is very rare to purchase a random set of used shafts and find that they will match up with both your fitting and installation needs. However, I will do my best to answer your question.

The easy answer to your question is  that installation of your set of shafts will play a bit more stiff if installed in your 3 to 9 heads, versus installation into your 4 to PW heads. But if you really want to understand a bit more about shaft installation, here are some key concepts-

First- Do not assume that the NS PRO 1150GH Tour used set that you have in your possession is an ‘R’ or an ‘S’ flex just because the shaft label says so. Depending on the raw shaft lengths chosen for the original installation, the type of trimming performed by the original installer, and the type of heads that you desire to install them into, will all have an effect on the shaft flex.

Next- For a traditional bottom of the bore to the ground hosel measurement of 1″, and for a traditional swingweight in the D1 to D2 range, you will achieve the shaft label stated flex by selecting the raw  shaft length of 37.5″ for the #5 iron club. Please note that this applies to most 1150 model sets. However, some manufacturers are supplied with an extended butt 1150GH model, and in this case, the correct raw  length shaft to select, to achieve the stated flex, will be the 39.5″ length.

Thus, if your used set was pulled from a traditional 1″ to the bottom of the bore to the ground hosel measurement, and your set is of the same hosel measurement geometry, and your head and grip installation will equate to a swingweight range of D1 to D2, and your 1150’s were butt trimmed only with the original installation, and the raw length shaft chosen for your #5 iron head is  the 37.5″ length, and finally, you install these shafts into your set of  4 to PW irons by butt trimming to your ”standard” length, then you will achieve the stated flex of your shaft set.

If all of the above applies, and you install your set into your #3 to 9 irons, then the shafts will play approximately 1/3 of a flex more stiff than the stated flex.

Your question of which heads to use for your set should be based on the both the installation parameters, and your fitting needs. As a result, this is why I always recommend a live, comparative assessment of shaft models, flexes and lengths, to detemine your fitting needs, and then, precise installation methods to achieve the selected fitting specifications. Regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi Mark,

I have given my clubs to a pro here in Italy asking him to measure

the shafts so I can proceed with ordering the correct ones.

He call this morning telling me that the diameter of the shaft

is 1 cm corresponding to 0.39 inches…

My question now is which shaft should I order.

I am honest: don’t know which is the difference between

parallel or taper….can you please try to explain to me?

Best Regards, Daniele 

 

ANSWER: Hi Daniele,

Like tires on a car, that are made in different sizes and specifications, golf clubs also come in different sizes and specifications.

Regarding the specific measurements for a golf shaft- there are 2 aspects to be concerned with.

1) Which shaft specifications fit the golfer?

and

2) Which shaft specifications fit the club?

Regarding #1- I always recommend working with a skilled fitter that can help you find your best performance for your body, swing, and game.

Regarding #2- We manufacture our shaft models in a variety of lengths and tip diameters to fit into a variety of clubhead and hosel designs.

Specifically, the hosel is the portion of the club that the shaft is inserted inside of. These openings into the hosel portion of the club are typically of two major sizings/openings- a .355 taper hosel, and a .370 parallel hosel. A .355 taper hosel requires a shaft model that measures .355, or 355/1000ths, at the tip end of the shaft. A .370 parallel hosel requires a shaft model that measures .370, or 370/1000ths, at the tip end of the shaft.

I urge you to work with someone who understands the basics of shaft fitting and shaft installation, to insure that you receive the performance you deserve.

Another possible resource is to contact our European Nippon Shaft Agent with any of your questions.

Their website is www.nipponeurope.com.

Mr. Garry Price at garry@nipponeurope.com.

Best regards, Mark  

QUESTION: Hello,

Please tell me what the tipping requirements are for the 850GH steel R-flex
starting at #3-PW. Thank You, South

ANSWER: Hi South,

The 850 model, for both .355 taper and .370 parallel tip diameter models, and for heads that have a traditional bottom of the bore to the ground measurement, the trimming instructions are as follows;

“Trim from the butt to desired length”.

For more information on installation and trimming of Nippon Shaft models, click on the categories of TRIMMING INSTRUCTIONS and SHAFT INSTALLATION PRIMER, located on the right side of this page. Regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi Mark,

I am a small club builder working out of my garage and I am interested in
putting a Nippon steel shaft in a Taylor Made Burner driver. I think a stiff
shaft that produces somewhere in the neighborhood of 260 cycles per minute? Do
you have something near that and how much will it cost?

Thanks, Bob

 
ANSWER:Hi Bob,

Thanks for sending in your note.

You might consider our NS PRO 950FW Series of premium steel shaft models designed for drivers and fairway metals. For information on this series, go to www.nipponshaft.com. These are available exclusively via our Authorized Nippon Shaft Installation Centers. Their contact information is available at www.shaftology.com.

Regarding a shaft that “produces somewhere in the neighborhood of  260 cycles per minute”, please let me offer a bit of true clubmaking education.

1) “260 cycles”, at first sounds like a very precise stiffness rating, however, in the real world, it represents a huge, wide, expansive, very large range of stiffness ratings.

2) What is required is some background info to achieve a more precise language and thus a more precise rating.

3) Because of the variability of the frequency meter machine and its shaft clamp, clamp pressure, base, head weight, grip on or off, etc., and even technician, a given rating, say 260CPM, can represent a stiffness rating of a Senior Flex, Medium Flex, Stiff Flex, or Extra Stiff Flex, or any of the in-between sub-flexes.

4) Because a frequency machine is measuring the “butt frequency” or relative butt stiffness of a given shaft, and not the TOTALITY of how a shaft will play with regards to flex or stiffness, a 260 CPM can represent a stiffness rating of a Senior Flex, Medium Flex, Stiff Flex, or an Extra-Stiff Flex, or any of the inbetween sub-flexes.

5) These variations occur because, for example, some models are very stiff in the butt section, but then very flexible in the mid and tip sections, versus a model that is very stiff in the butt section, and then very stiff in the mid and tip sections. This results in a similar stiffness CPM “rating”, but  is not at all representative of the stiffness “playability” of the two shaft models.

6)If you realize now the number variations that are in play, you understand that “260 CPMs” is only a raw rating of a given machine, a given measurement methodology, and a given shaft.

7) The next realization therefore, is that comparing this raw number to another raw number, derived from a different machine, different measurement methodology, and different shaft geometry offers no value in comparison.

8) So what is the value of these measurements? My best recommendation is to use a frequency machine and the raw values to compare and evaluate the relative stiffness of one series of shaft models.

9) For example-

Let’s say you have an NS PRO 950FW ‘S’ flex shaft installed in your driver, with specifications of 44″ length, D2 swingweight, a standard Lamkin Crossline grip, and the raw frequency value is 260. And let’s say that you play with this combination and it feels too flexible, you have a hard time adjusting to the flex, and thus your shot pattern and face contact is erratic.

Next, you have an NS PRO 950FW ‘X’ flex shaft installed into your same driver, with the exact same specifications, and the raw frequency value is 272. We know that this raw frequency number is of great comparison value since we are using the same machine, same measurement methodology, and same shaft geometry, thus the difference in the CPM value is a direct representation of the actual flex value as compared to the previous club.

Let’s say this club feels too stiff, and plays quite “dead”, meaning that they only way to get this shaft to play OK is to swing in a jerking motion to get the shaft to flex and thus feel like there is some life to it.

If the stiff club played approximately a half of a flex too flexible, and the x-stiff club played approximately a half of a flex too stiff, and the other specifications of length and weight seemed optimal, then it would be accurate to assume that building a driver with a raw flex value of 266, to the same specifications, would perform excellent.

10) Many newer clubmakers want a simple, one factor, “take my temperature to diagnose my health” approach,  to shaft selection, but what is required for best performance and most enjoyment, is a blend of the art and the science of clubmaking.

Regarding the cost of the NS PRO 950FW shaft series, please contact any of our Authorized Centers. The pricing is certainly dependent upon the fitting and installation services offered.

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi,
What BBGM measurement is assumed when installing an Orange Peening? Typical
heads allow a 1.2 inch insertion.  If it’s inserted only 1 inches in and
soft-stepped, would that turn an x-stiff into a stiff while keeping the higher
shaft weight? Thanks! Jackson

ANSWER: Hi Jackson,

The insertion depth is not the best perspective. For the most accurate, and simplest method to compare the effect on shaft flex with different iron head designs, use the measurement of BBGM (Bottom of the bore to the ground measurement).

The BBGM is easiest to determine using the following 3 step formula:

Step 1) Install any given shaft into your iron head. Measure and record the overall length.

Step 2) Measure and record the length of the given shaft used in step 2.

Step 3) Overall club length - shaft length = BBGM.

Next example- for most Nippon Shaft models, the following will apply;

Installing a standard S flex shaft into an iron head with a BBGM of 1″ will yield a flex of ‘S’.

Installing a standard S flex shaft into an iron head with a BBGM of 1/2″ will yield a flex of 1/3 of a flex rating stiffer than an ‘S’ flex.

Installing a standard S flex shaft into an iron head with a BBGM of 0″ will yield a flex of 2/3 of a flex rating stiffer than an ‘S’ flex.

Installing a standard S flex shaft into an iron head with a BBGM of 1 1/2″ will yield a flex of 1/3 of a flex more flexible than an ‘S’ flex.

Regarding your example, you cannot make an accurate assessment of the flex using shaft hosel insertion. You need to measure the BBGM. Without this you will never know what flex you are using. 

However, you can use a math equation to learn the “net flex change”. If .5 = 1/3, .2 = .132, So .132 + .333 = .465. Thus, if you played with a given flex, and then used the same flex and changed the shaft insertion depth .2″ less, and soft-stepped the shafts by 1 club, your set would now play .465 of a flex more flexible, or slightly less than a half of a flex more flexible than your previous set.

Regarding maintaining “the heavier weight” - you lose most of that when you trim the extra material off the butt as a result of less insertion and soft-stepping.

Math class is now on recess. Regards, Mark 

QUESTION: Hi,

I wanted to know what length shaft I need to install into a Nike SQ tour head to
achieve an overall length of 45″? MC

ANSWER: Hi MC,

One of my rules is not to guess on step by step specific installation specifications over the internet. I say “guess” because different companies and clubmakers measure things in a variety of ways, and/or are working on heads that may be altered in some way, or may be a different factory version.

I will give a simple method of how I would calculate this for myself.

For any given driver head, the formula is the same-

GOAL- I have a new driver head, and want to know what shaft length I need to install into a head to achieve a 45″ finished length.

STEP 1 - I dry fit any shaft length model into my given head, and then measure the overall length of the head and shaft. Let’s say, for example, the result is 47.5″.

STEP 2 - I measure the raw shaft length of the shaft I just used to dry fit into my given head. Let’s say, for example, the result is 46.0″. 

STEP 3 - I subtract the difference between my overall club length and my shaft length, or 47.5″ less 46.0″ which equals 1.5″. This 1.5″ measurement is my “bottom of the bore to the ground” measurement.

STEP 4 - To achieve a length of 45.0″ with a head that has a bottom of the bore to the ground measurement of 1.5″, I will need a shaft length of 43.5″.

Your head may/will give a different result.

So the answer to your question is to find the bottom of the bore to the ground measurement, and then subtract this number from your length of 45″, and then you will have your answer. Regards, Mark 
 

QUESTION: Hi,
I wonder could you enlighten me as to the standard length 5 iron average between
the tours 37.5  37.75  or 38?

Many Thanks, David

ANSWER: Hi David,

I am not exactly sure if I understand your question. Please reply to my email if I mis-interpret your question.

I am assuming that you are questioning why the manufacturers have different lengths for their “standard” #5 iron and why the Tour Vans seem to measure things differently?

Golf is basically a small industry, most all of which are currently family businesses, or started as family businesses. They started one way and their building philosophy, head weights, machines, etc., are set for their systems. There is no confusion inside the individual companies, as they are able to keep a consistent set of standards for their products. However, the problems come about when golfers try to compare Mizuno products to Ping products to Callaway models, and they are all different.

If you surveyed all of our Authorized Installation Centers as to the standard length of a 5 iron, and as to their method of measurement, you would see quite a variety of specifications, but most are in the general area.

A couple of years ago, I took a Taylor Made driver into 3 different Tour Vans, and asked them to give me a length measurement and I received three different answers. This is mainly because of the different measurement methods applied.

I prefer the USGA 60 degree method as shown in the back of the USGA rule book. Many of the major manufacturers have as their standard length #5 iron at 37.75″, with some manufacturers at 38.00″. These are considered the standards on the PGA, LPGA and Champions Tours. A few old school Pros on the Champions Tour consider a #5 iron to be 37.50″, and one or two are still using the old standard of 37.00″.

Odd things abound - for example- Both Titleist and Mizuno list their standard #5 iron as 37.75″, yet if you held them side by side, the Misuno iron shows up 1/4″ longer than the Titleist. Why? Once again- due to the measurement method.  

Please write if my reply is off track. Regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi Mark,

I have a question about frequency of Nippon Shafts. I consistently get lower
frequency out of these shafts. I recently picked out a Cobra S2 with a 1030h and
a S2 forged with a 1130 Tour, both marked stiff flex. They both freq’d in the
senior flex range. I have a set of Titleist 775 irons with Nippon Shafts. They
are marked stiff and they freq. at 4.5 on a analyzer. I am freq’ing these irons
with grips on. But, to create a baseline I freq’d a Titleist iron with a TT S300
and it freq’d at 6.0. I really like the Nippon Shaft, but I am having trouble
trying to figure out what shaft flex to purchase. I also have a female student
that I fitted with a set of Cobra FP irons with Nippons marked stiff. The
confusion is that her driver, fairway and hybrid have Aldila shafts in a “A”
flex. I appreciate your input and look forward hearing from you.

Thanks, Larry

ANSWER: Hi Larry,

Get ready for me to burst your bubble…. “Butt frequency as a comparative flex tool is meaningless!”.

I am going to give you a similar example of the lack of relevance of using butt frequency measurement to compare shaft flex, and especially to choose flex.

EXAMPLE: If there were two vehicles- and one vehicle hit a building going 20 MPH, and the other vehicle hit the same building at 40 MPH, which MPH would do the most damage? With just these facts, most everyone would say that the vehicle going 40 MPH would do the most damage. However, what if I also told you that the vehicle going 40 MPH was a Volkswagen Beetle, with just the flower in its vase as cargo, and it hit the building with a glancing blow, at a 45 degree angle, versus the other vehicle was a fully loaded Kenworth semi tractor-trailer, hitting the building at a straight-on 90 degree angle? Of course, these facts change the case, and the original conclusion, based solely on a MPH rating is faulty.

Using MPH to tell the whole story, when there are several factors that will determine the amount of force and destruction, will never yield an accurate assessment of the situation. Likewise, using a single variable of a shaft clamped at the butt and a reading taken by a meter will only give a small part of the complete story. What about the weight, shaft material, tip stiffness, mid stiffness and torque properties? All of these factors must be added into the equation before an accurate summary of a shaft’s total flex properties can be established.

You are certainly are not the first golfer to hope that a single variable could quantify the entire shaft universe, but the reality is that we need to go beyond a single facet to uncover the sum of a shaft’s properties.

Of course, shaft frequency can be accurately applied, with regards to flex, to shafts of the exact same model, material, geometry, etc., if measured using the same criteria. However, comparing two different models by using a butt frequency number, gives only the murkiest of conclusions.

Regarding your specific questions of low frequency numbers numbers on Nippon Shaft models- if you measured every shaft in the universe on your machine, and then played with all of them, you would soon find that most lightweight models that PLAYED stiff, would MEASURE softer than their heavier stiff shaft counterparts. This is true for most every company, not just Nippon Shaft. 

To find the answers you are looking for- how to properly measure, recommend, and install shaft models, -it takes a lot of education about shaft properties, EI curve analysis, the actual playing properties, live testing, feedback from your customers, and even a lot of trial and error. But you will never be consistently successful using a meaningless tool of butt frequency.

Regards, Mark