QUESTION: Hi,

I am a +4 handicap that has played Taylor Made RAC MP TP’s for the past 5 sets, and I just recently received the TP MB Smokes.  I’ve played the previous sets with
S300’s. I’ve gotten a lot stronger over the past year and now I need an X shaft. 
My ball flight is low to mid tragectory. I would prefer it to stay there. My
carry with a 7 iron is 180 yards and I have an average to quick swing. The clubs
have Flighted Rifle shafts in them, but they are only 6.0.  Obviously not strong
enough and they feel very soft at contact.  I don’t really know too much about
Rifle shafts.  My dilemma here is the shaft choice.  True Temper x100, x300,
Black Gold or Project X?  Everyone that I talk to gives me there personal
preference.  Most golf stores have someone who knows little about this kind of
thing.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you very much.   Bill

 

ANSWER: Hi Bill,

I will be frank with you. Your note contains some background information, but little performance input. Without actual performance information, any golfer would have no realistic chance of selecting the optimal shaft. Zero.

Why have you changed sets? Was their a performance problem with your existing set? Did you change sets just to try a different flavor of the month? Did you play well with your True Temper S300’s? Have you seen a performance issue with your S300 set that makes you believe that you need a stiffer flex? Since strength has little relationship with flex selection, is there another reason why you think you should be playing a stiffer flex? What is the feel of your S300 sets? Feel during the swing? Feel at impact? Consistency of trajectory? Consistency of carry? Consistency of contact? Shot dispersion?

Do you really expect that you can walk into a golf store and ask a salesperson to help you answer these above questions?

At a handicap of +4, you are regularly scoring in the 60’s. Especially in your situation, playing at such a high level, your equipment selection method should be at an equally high level. Asking for opinions and talking to golf store clerks seems quite foolish and a waste of your time.

Here are some preferred options for optimal equipment selection-

1) Live testing is the ultimate and final method of shaft determination. Since your swing, power, ability, background, etc. are as unique as a fingerprint, only you can judge your performance of feel and flight. Regardless of cost, eventually, this is your ultimate destination. Choosing anything less is choosing to be less of a player.

2) The best method of live testing is actual comparison of your head style with a variety of shaft options. Often this is not readily available and you will have to choose the best possible selection of testing methods. Maybe you work with a clubmaker who will build you several test clubs of the approximate idea. Maybe you find a fitting cart with some reasonable choices  of shaft/head combinations. Maybe you find a fitter who has a variety of test shafts for comparison. Maybe you find a Taylor Made Select Fit Dealer who can go a bit beyond the normal shaft connect options. Maybe you even find a fitting cart, not from Taylor Made, but filled with good shaft options to test. The idea here is to be able to swing, hit, feel and interact with different shaft options. Any of these above options are vastly superior to a sales clerk’s opinion or a flip answer on an internet forum. 

3) So-

At the very least- Find a fitting cart or demo day.

At the very best- Connect with a competent clubfitter/clubmaker. Ask your questions, demand live comparisons, demand a method designed to determine optimal shaft performance, demand a strong warranty, expect to invest time, energy, money, expect to leave ill-fitting equipment and funky swing compensations in the past, and expect to find a shaft that performs beautifully in all respects.

Some good options to pursue;

Nippon Shaft Authorized Installation Centers    www.shaftology.com

True Temper Tour Concept Dealers    www.tttourconcept.com

SST PURE Center  www.sstpure.com

Most of the above centers service and sell all the major shaft brands.

Best regards, Mark    

QUESTION: Hi Mark

1) While looking at this confirmation message, I realise that I made a big blunder while stating my carry distance with a six iron; it should have read 140 metres i.e 154 yards. Will this make a difference to the answer you gave me? 
 
2) I’ve been playing a few rounds with the Taylor Made r7 TP with NS PRO 950 R flex. Noticed longer distance with the 8-PW and shorter distance with 5-7 irons. Any reasons why this is so and what are your recommendations. 
 
Thanks a lot and best regards, Paul

ANSWER: Hi Paul,

Carry distance and swing speed are never good indicators of the ideal shaft or shaft flex. Golf is an interactive game, and shaft testing should be no less interactive.

Ideally, I suggest a serious fitting with comparison of the various shaft models. The 950 model is lighter than most steel shafts, and it is like wine or a car or a concert, it has to be tasted, or driven or seen in order to make the best assessment.

At the very least, shaft choice has a lot to do with your past experience- what you have been using, how successful you have been with a given shaft geometry and shaft flex, and how well your previous set has been fitted with regards to length, lie, shaft, weight, head, sole, grip, inistallation, etc.

These questions must be answered first. Most golfers want the short answer- i.e. swingspeed + carry = the perfect flex, however, this is an inconclusive method and has always proven innacurate. The only accurate method is a serious assessment with a skilled fitter.

With regards to your distance gains and distance losses with the r7 TP test set, much depends on the set you are comparing. When you are testing out a set, the lofts, lengths, lies, and overall specifications may be quite different, as to compared to your previous set, which makes these comparisons hard to quantify. If you are having success with the short irons, and they feel good and solid, then possibly this is a good combo for you, and the loss of distance in the longer irons might just be an issue of the longer irons being naturally more difficult to play. If you like the set, you might consider a mixed set of irons and hybrids, for a combination of performance and forgiveness. 

Regards, Mark  

 

QUESTION: Hi Mark,

I have been fitted and measured several times. All the wrist-to-floor charts
agree that I should be 1 inch over on my iron lengths. The clubfitter told me I need a 
38.25″ six iron, which is 1 inch over for most standard steel six iron lengths.

My question is—since graphite is usually 1/2 inch longer than steel on any
given set, does that mean my graphite iron should be a 38.75″ six iron, or do I
stay at 38.25″ regardless of whether using graphite or steel?

What about the golfer who is a standard length in steel and wants graphite which
is 1/2 inch longer?  Won’t that be too long for him?

Thanks, BSK

 

ANSWER: Hi BSK,

If you feel comfortable with a 6 iron length of 38.25″, then stay with that length, regardless of the material and/or weight of the shaft. 

Some manufacturers still build their clubs at different lengths for steel shafted and graphite shafted models in an effort to maintain reasonable swingweights without adjusting the headweights. This is primarily based on the notion that has existed for decades- that golfers prefer to pay less for clubs that may or may not fit, and will adjust their bodies and swings to make things work.  If the manufacturer does not have to build different headweights for different weight shaft models, then the costs to the consumer will stay lower- yet this also means that the consumer often receives a product that offers less performance. 

These notions are outdated and terrible compromises that golfers must make. Golfers are slowly learning that options exist regarding price and performance, and more manufacturers are offering options that do not require golfers to have to adjust their swing, body and games in order to pay a reasonable price for their equipment. This is why companies like Srixon and MacGregor and Miura are offering their heads to premium fitting and installation centers in an effort to provide more options for the golfer who is tired of compensating and adjusting their golf swings and wants more.

One last comment, length charts might be good as a starting point, but optimally you want to be fitted for length in motion. Never in the history of the thousands of players on the PGA Tour has anyone ever been fitted for length via a length chart. And if these golfers, who are more athletically able to adjust for their set’s inadequacies, are not fitted in this manner, then what direction do you think you should take?

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hello Mark,

How does the ’stiff’ in Nippon Shaft models correspond to S300 or Rifle 6.0?
Thanks, JMS

 

ANSWER: Hi JMS,

This flex comparison is one of the most misunderstood concepts that travel the web forums and golf discussions around the world.

The true answer is- the Nippon Shaft ‘S’, and the True Temper ‘S’, and the Rifle ‘S’ flexes are actually the same flex!

But how can this be? The butt frequency measurements are not the same. They don’t feel the same. And golfers on the internet testify that they do not play the same. What gives?

First, you must understand that a Nippon Shaft 950GH model, a True Temper Dynamic Gold model, and a Rifle model, are 3 completely different shaft weights and geometries. Based on the weight alone, a golfer who strongly prefers the heavier TT Dynamic Model will never like the lighter 950 model, no matter how stiff a flex is chosen and thus will often report that the shaft plays too flexible. The lighter model will always feel loose and disconnected to this golfer because of the weight, but not because of the flex. Conversely, the golfer who shows a strong preference for our 950 model, will never find optimum performance for the Dynamic model, finding it harder to swing, no matter how flexible the shaft choice.

You will often read, by uninformed web posters, that Nippon Shaft lightweight models play “soft”, but that the traditional weight Nippon Shaft models play “true to flex”.  They point to certain butt flex readings taken off a “frequency” machine. This discussion has some merit in that the typical butt frequency of our lighter weight models will show a lower reading than heavier shaft models- but this is true of any premium iron series, and is done in an intentional manner so that the shafts “play” to the same flexibility. In order to achieve an ”accurate playing flex” for lighter weight steel shaft model as compared to the same flex, the raw bending properties must be adjusted softer due to the inherent properties of steel shafts with thinner walls.  If the raw bending properties, including the butt frequency numbers, were maintained the same across all weights and geometries, the lighter models would not perform properly or sell effectively. All of the end users would complain that they “play” too stiff, too hard, too boardy.

This has been proven in player testing, year after year. Every premium shaft company chooses to adjust their shafts bending properties based on the weight and design of the shaft so that the individual flex rating of their shaft models “play” the SAME.

A good example is to compare 3 vehicles, (a motorcyle, a sedan, and a semi), going at the same rate of speed, say 60 mph. But for some reason, they don’t accelerate, brake, or control the same. Why? Inertia? Size? Weight? Of course! We might not understand how to graph the principle of inertia- but we know that once the semi-truck is moving at 60 mph, it takes more effort to slow it down than our cycle or car. Just like our different shaft weight models will swing differently, the different weight vehicles will drive differently.

And we may be able to design a given car and truck to have the same ride, but I guarantee we have to adjust the design and settings of the shock/spring system differently for each of the vehicles to get that same ride. In the same manner, we have to adjust the flex settings to have the shafts play to the same flex.

This can be confusing at first, but here are the most important concepts to remember;

1) Not all shaft designs will work for your body type, swing type, and ball flight parameters. You must determine which design allows your body and swing to be the most efficient and powerful, and which design gives you the best ball flight results.

2) Next, you must determine the ideal flex that allows you to swing most efficiently, and consistently allows you to return the clubhead to impact with the highest percentage of center hits. 

Best of luck, Mark

QUESTION: Good morning. I’m from Ontario, Canada. Biding my time til the snow disappears and our course opens again. I plan on replacing my shafts this Spring and need advice on the appropriate Nippon Shaft model for me.
Not sure what info you need but I’m 56  years old and reasonably athletic. I play TaylorMade r7 XD irons. Not certain but think clubhead speed is in the mid 90’s. I hit my 6 iron maybe 155 - 160 yards. Last season I committed to lessons over the next 3 seasons. This past season my handicap dropped from 18 to 15, so I am heading in the right direction. My goal is to get to a 12 handicap. I think switching to a Nippon Shaft model will help, except I’m a little lost in which models to consider. Thanks for your time, Charlie

 

ANSWER: Hi Charlie,

I’m in the same place as you, in Chicago, waiting for the winter to move along and dreaming of greener fairways.

When deciding on your shaft specifications, the major considerations are weight, length and flex. This sounds like a lot, but it is very hard to separate them. The second challenge is that these 3 variables should be chosen on an interactive type basis. This means that the optimal method is through live testing. I will give you a few quidelines, but certainly, there is no mathematical formula or swing equation that will determine what is most efficient for your body, swing and game. Proper, natural, efficient clubfitting must be determined in a live setting…, just as you are undergoing swing education in a live, interactive setting.

In the most general sense, choose a shaft flex that you have had success with in the past. Do not base your choice on age or power or speed. If you have always liked more flexible shafts, stay with this pattern. If you have always preferred stiffer flexes- stay right there. Regarding length, do not be afraid to think outside of the box. Not every golfer is “standard” length. Question this variable, and find a Golf Town or any store that has some test clubs or fitting cart type clubs and hit clubs with varying lengths. If a certain length feels natural and comfortable, it is probably because that length is more natural and comfortable for you. Finally, the shaft weight is a big consideration. MOST golfers do not fit into a graphite weight shaft iron model, (Of course some do). I would investigate what you have been using- look at your current model- if it has a shaft label, or if you know the shaft model you are using- do a search for the shaft company’s site and look up the shaft weight you are currently using on their specification web page- then go to our site @ www.nipponshaft.com. All of our models and specifications are listed there. If you are looking for something a bit lighter, than you will have the information to gauge the range of shaft weight.

If you are looking to play with one of our premium lightweight models, you might consider our NS PRO 950GH or our NS PRO 1050GH. These models are our most popular as many golfers are looking for a shaft weight that is right in between the weight of a traditional steel shaft and the weight of a traditional graphite shaft model. If you like your clubs heavier, and have always had success with a more traditonal weight iron shaft, you should consider our NS PRO 1150GH Tour or our NS PRO Superpeening ORANGE model.

In the most specific sense, your ideal path to finding the proper shaft length, weight and flex is through a skilled, competent clubfitter who uses interactive testing of these variables and can act as a guide in helping you find your best set, just as your swing teacher is acting as a guide in finding your best swing.

Even though this is the ideal method of finding your best set of clubs, I realize this is not always the most practical since interactive clubfitters are in very short supply. One suggestion off the top of my head is a firm in St. Catherines, Ontario, Tayler Golf, that may be worth a trip to help in your search.  

One word of caution, like no time in our history, our industry is producing hundreds of wonderful, premium head and shaft options, yet the fitting and diagnostic area has not kept pace, and there are few outlets for golfers to receive competent fitting advice. As a result, bad information travels around the globe via golfers, golf shops and internet forums. Seek out competent advice, hit a variety of test clubs, and expect to learn about your equipment choices at a pace similar to what you are experiencing in your lesson/swing education that you are undergoing.

Best of luck on your search and your goals. I hope other golfers reading this post who are also waiting for spring to come realize some of the wonderful benefits that a premium fitted set of shafts can have on their game.

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Dear Sirs,

I am interested in ordering a set of PING irons with Nippon Pro 950 steel shafts.

Based on a smooth tempo and a 6-iron carry distance of 155-160 yds., what flex would you recommend - RS or S?

Thanks and best regards, Ed

 

ANSWER: Hi Ed,

You are thinking about two premium products, Ping irons and Nippon Shaft models. The hard part is to find the right “dimension” of length, lie, shaft, flex, weight, geometry, etc. for your new set.

If you read through a few of my posts on this subject in this Q&A section, you will learn what I have learned after 20,000+ fitting sessions- there is no mathematical formula that can quantify the interaction between a golfer and a golf shaft in motion. Despite the misinformation that whirls around the internet forums and travels the golf shops, company brochures and websites all over our golf community- mathematical formulas still have no relevance in selecting the shaft for your new set of Ping irons.

You will have a much better chance of the optimum shaft selection if you take step number one and ERASE this idea of some magical shaft formula from your brain.

Next- if you want to make a reasonable shaft flex choice- choose a flex that you have generally have had success with in the past. This will yield much better results and more consistent contact and ball flight than a mathematical chart.

Finally- if you want to achieve high-end, efficient shaft performance, you will need to embark on a journey of live, interactive testing of shaft comparison, flex comparison, length comparison and connecting with a skilled, competent clubfitter. This is a lot of work and costs more and might even be a bit uncomfortable- but, afterwards the game is so much easier. All that swing adjusting and modifying and conforming is left behind and you are left with your best, most natural, most powerful swing.

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Greetings, I have Callaway X-20 irons with the 990GH shafts.

I hit the ball with my 6 iron about 170-180, but with these shafts the

ball is HIGH HIGH HIGH flying! I have always played with either Rifle 

or S300 TT shafts and hit the ball with a med-high trajectory.  

What should I be using?  Driver swing is about 100-105. 

Thanks for any direction you can give me, Preacher

 

ANSWER: Hi Preacher,

Here’s a good formula in order to find some “direction”. 

1) Eliminate all references to distance and swing speed. What do 

these numbers mean? Who is measuring them? Where are you playing?

Does anybody really know what time it is? Does anybody really care…

(Sorry for my commentary)

2) Identify what is the same- i.e. same golfer, same swing, etc.

3) Identify what is different- i.e. different shaft, different head?

What we are left with is that we assume that the same golfer, the

same ball position, the same swing, etc., is producing different

results… meaning a high, high, high trajectory. So the rise in

your shot trajectory is not because of you or your swing. (The only

exception to this rule is that some shafts, lengths, weights, etc., 

will make you adjust your swing to adapt to the variant specification

and create a different performance characteristic).

Therefore, your equipment must be causing this higher flight. 

Possibly your current shaft model is too light or too flexible 

or even a combination of both. The NS PRO 990GH is a lightweight

mid/hi launch model and is typically installed to between an ‘R’ 

and an ‘S’ flex. The other shaft models you mention are heavier, 

stiffer, lower launch shaft models. Another large factor might be

your current head model, which is most assuredly designed to aid 

in getting the ball airborne.

Other minor factors include the length of your set, and the sole

design of your current model versus what you have played in the past.

The general answer is to find a shaft model that is closer to what you

have used in the past. Our NS PRO 1150GH and our NS PRO Superpeening

BLUE are two of our models in this range.

 
The more specific answer is to think in broader performance terms.
Be careful of the frightening depth of mis-information that travels 
the net and many golfs shops around the world.
Find a skilled, competent, clubmaker/clubfitter and be prepared to 
spend some time, money, and energy to find the equipment that 
allows you to perform in an efficient, natural, powerful manner,
without the need for compensation, adjustment, or settling for
a second tier choice. Best regards, Mark 

QUESTION:Mark,

I’m thinking of installing a set of TCI 100R (Aldila discontinued) taper tip.
I really want a firm R flex or a soft S flex. My reason is
I can swing the irons fast but I am getting older and need to tone it down and
get more control on my shots. My old shafts (very old), 1460TFB Kunnan Tour Flex
Boron. Any way can the taper tip be tipped to stiffen it up (It is going into a
.370 parallel with shimming) or will I mess up the flex and weight doing this? I
also can get the TCI 120S and maybe step it down 1 club but I really think the
lighter shaft will be better as the heads are 5 grams light already, (8 iron is
278 gm). Any suggestions? Jim

ANSWER: Hi Jim,

To be frank, your thoughts are all over the place. I wouldn’t know what to suggest.

You express some GENERAL perfomance desire to gain some shot control and then jump into some very SPECIFIC installation questions without quantifying EXACTLY what you are trying to achieve performance-wise.

It sounds like you are thinking about, or have already purchased a set of shafts to install in your irons. What are your thoughts? Have you hit these shafts? Did you just buy them to try? Do you know what the playability will be? Do you have any idea of the flex and bend geometry of this particular model? How will your body, swing and game interact with this set of shafts? Why this set of shafts versus the hundred or so other shaft options?

More importantly, what was your performance with your existing set of shafts? And what exactly are you looking for in this new set? Better trajectory control? More solid contact? More consistent play in general? Better shot dispersion? Or just a different, new set?

Will this set of shafts help you in achieving your desired result?

Once your goals are determined- then - What is the ideal shaft model/flex/weight/bend, length, swingweight, lie angle, grip model, grip size, and installation model that will achieve what you are looking for? 

If this set of shafts is just a trial and error thing, then the installation methodology will not have that much of an impact. If you already own the set and are determined to have them installed, just use common sense and consistent installation methods.

Once you get a handle on your performance goals, and learn how this set of shafts will perform for you, then it will be time to specifically discuss how to install this set of shafts into your iron set to achieve your desired results.

“My best hope is that you use this opportunity to ask yourself these questions, try to avoid most of what you read on the internet equipment forums, including my ramblings, and connect with a competent, skilled fitter/installer, and spend the time and energy to test different options, learn about your game, your body, and your swing, and really get a handle on your equipment selections.”

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hello, I am looking at putting a Nippon Shaft steel model into a new set of Mizuno MP-60 irons @ +3/4 inch length, and 1 degree upright.  I play to a 6 handicap and am wondering which Nippon Shaft models I should be considering? Thanks, PKA

ANSWER: Hi PKA,

It sounds like you have already determined quite a few things regarding iron model, length and lie, and even the shaft brand. You are now faced with the most difficult part of the equipment equation- the shaft choice.

If you read through just a few of the Q and A posts on this site, you will soon realize that this question of finding the optimal shaft is both the most popular question and the most difficult to determine. Selecting the best shaft model and flex could certainly never be based on a golfer’s handicap. We all know 6 handicap golfers who are built different, swing different, and strike the ball in a different manner. So we need some method of quantifying how our build, game and swing relate to the optimal shaft choice.

One starting point is - What shaft model, length, and flex have you had success with in the past? Then- What are your goals with your new set? Are you seeking more distance? Control? Consistency? Change in Ball flight? Overall efficiency? Next- Is the length and lie different than what you have had in the past? The same? For many golfers- going to a longer length often means selecting a lighter overall shaft weight.

Ideally- the only 100% accurate method of shaft selection is through some form of interactive testing, and best done through a competent fitting and installation center that can both answer all your questions, keep you on track with your goals, and give you the best installation options.

At the very least, some form of live shaft interaction through a demo day, fitting shop, fitting cart, or retail shop will give you some actual, real feedback to aid in your selection.

Some possible shafts in your category include our 95 gram award-winning NS PRO 950GH, our 106 gram NS PRO 1050GH, or our slight counter-balanced, 116 gram NS PRO 1150GH.

Please write back anytime. Best regards, Mark