QUESTION: I am now playing either Mizuno MX-23 with a Rifle 5.0 shaft, or Bridgestone J-33 Combos with True Temper Dynamic Gold Superlite Stiff.  Both combinations yield straight, but I am looking for a set that I can play year around, instead of starting with the forgiving Mizunos and working my swing into the J33’s.  I am looking at a set of Bridgestone GC Mids with the Nippon 1050 shaft.  I am 6′4″, 192 pounds, 59 years old, medium tempo, 90 MPH driver swing speed, and tend to sweep rather than really hit down on irons.  I was fit by a very qualified fitter who told me I would best be fit with a firm iron shaft if regular weight, and there are none out there that I like.  I do not know a ratio of gram weight and swing speed, or a way to calculate how much faster I will swing the different lighter shafts. Would you suggest a stiff or a regular in the Nippon 1050’s ?
Thank you, Bob

ANSWER: Bob,

30 years ago I read my first article on golf equipment by Ralph Maltby and I was amazed at the time and energy he spent trying to educate and dispel common equipment myths, many of which are listed in your above note. Today I find myself doing the same thing. I will try to help you with the best way to find your optimum set.

If you have confidence in your fitter and you like the idea of a ”firm” flex, (which I guess is a flex between Regular and Stiff), then choose this as your starting point. In an off the rack equipment choice, you may not be able to find this flex in a particular model, but any quality clubmaker is able to install ANY shaft model into ANY flex or sub-flex. Our Authorized Installation Centers install our shaft models into dozens of flexes and sub-flexes every day. 

What happens so often is golfers limit there options by only seeing what is offered in the static off the rack world, yet there is a world of premium clubmaking that offers natural, comfortable, efficient, high end performance. Finding the optimal set takes more time, and we may even have to encounter some less than perfect quality clubmakers, and it costs more. Yet it certainly is less effort and expense then working on your third set of irons that still are not ideal.

Next- trying to calculate or derive a formula of shaft flex and shaft weight, and even shaft length for a GOLFER WHO IS INTERACTING WITH A CLUB IN MOTION is impossible. Never in the history of the PGA Tour has a player ever selected a golf club or shaft in this manner.

An example of this, that golfers are beginning to understand, in another club specification is club lie angle. Equipment companies used to base this measurement on the golfer’s height and later, on their wrist to floor measurement. Yet, we now know that the shaft is bent at impact in a different position then its resting state at address, and that this bending is relative to the forces that a golfer exerts- which certainly can be different for golfers who may have the same static measurements. This is why lie angle is no longer CALCULATED, but tested via the use of a lie board by most every reputable company.
In this regard, our other specifications may differ once we put the club in motion.

For most golfers, the critical elements of an iron fitting are the shaft weight, shaft flex and the club length. Do not miss the boat on these, especially the relationship between club length and shaft weight. I encourage you to be tested in an interactive manner with regards to these elements via demo/test clubs or a quality fitting cart or the like. Then find a clubmaker who is able to install/build your set, (with whatever brand you prefer), to the specifications that you performed the best with.

Calculations for shaft weight are like calculating what a certain wine might taste like for a specific individual. The only definitive method is to taste the wine.

Wasting your time trying to derive some equation of weight versus swing speed divided by angle of attack will only help you find another set that you have to adjust and manipulate like you are doing with your Bridgestone set.

I recommend that you connect with your clubfitter, and find a clubmaker that has the ability to alter your set of 23’s or 33’s, or even the Bridgestone Mids, to your most efficient specifications and reward your swing and your game with fun and high performance.

Are there new clubmakers and clubfitters out there reading my words for the first time??

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Thanks for the answer, but not as much help as I had hoped for. Michael

ANSWER: Michael,

I wish we had more quantifiable measurement methods for “SHAFT OPTIMIZATION” determination, but the reality is that golfer’s bodies are unique, and despite all the websites and shaft guides that are in use- they are merely a random guess- and thus give random results. I receive tons of emails asking for the optimal shaft model/weight/flex/geometry, but the only verifiable method for a golf club in motion is that which is in use on the PGA Tour- interactive testing. It requires time and expense, but is also 100% accurate.

I encourage you to move beyond the guess of a quick answer and zoom past all the other golfers who are stuck with erratic performing equipment. Choose natural, efficient, high performance equipment. Leave the need to adjust, conform, and manipulate in the rear view mirror. Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi, I need advice on a shaft selection.  I have a demo Tour Edge Exotics E1 with 950 X flex, normal lie, length and loft.  I hit that club about 175 to 180.  While I
love the feel and performance, I am used to a slightly heavier shaft.  Normal Driver is 275.  Should  I go S, X or SX in the 1050 or would the 1150 be a better choice. 
Thanks, MODONNEL

ANSWER: MODONNEL, Your question absolutely relates to how our body and swing relate to the feel of the shaft in a set.

First, if you “love the feel and performance” of your 950 shafted demo, you must be saying that you love the hit sensation, the ball flight, etc., but you are used to heavier shaft models and are thus concerned that you might not have the same consistent performance.

If this conclusion is correct on my part, then I would certainly recommend to go with a bit heavier shaft model. The exact weight required is an interactive process. Only you can be the judge of the efficiency of your performance and how a shaft feels weight-wise. If the shaft is too light, you body and swing will struggle to “sense where the club is” and thus have a difficult time returning the club back to the ball in an efficient, repetitive manner. If the shaft is too heavy, you are wasting energy and losing power. 

If the 950 demo shaft model felt pretty good and you had no trouble making good clean contact time after time, and never felt like you had to adjust your swing and tempo for the lighter weight shaft, then I would stay with the 950 model despite what you are used to.

If the 950 demo felt just a bit light at times, but generally pretty good, - NS PRO 1050GH.

If the 950 demo was good, but your body is searching for the club during your swing, NS PRO 1150GH is most likely a better choice.

Regarding the optimum flex choice, this is also an interactive choice. However, if you achieve a good flight pattern, and a good hit sensation without any harsh feeling, and don’t feel like you have to rush the club through impact, then you probably will stay with the same flex as in the demo.

Keep searching for the club that gives you the most efficient, natural performance, without the need for modifications and manipulations. Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi, I recently had the opportunity to purchase a set of Mizuno MX-25’s 3-Pw for $400…. Though I have a set of TM r7’s that I like very much! My problem is the
MX-25 set came with S300 SL shafts, and I am sure the lie angle is off for me….

Thanks, Mike

ANSWER: Hi Mike, That’s what this Q&A section is exactly for, to hopefully educate a bit in our information-less community, and provide a starting point for your optimal club search.

The best place to start is with your Taylor-Made set. If you like the basic performance of your r7 set, and the overall weight/feel of the set, and if this set is shafted with a shaft weight in the 90 gram range, I would start with a similar weight shaft for your MX-25 set.

Our NS PRO 950GH, at 95 grams is available through our Authorized Installation Centers in over 100 variations to achieve the ideal length, flex, or even sub-flex. If you feel like you want an in-between flex, between R and S, any of our centers are capable of this installation in your MX-25 irons.

Of course, as you referenced, you want to also alter this set, length-wise, lie-wise and grip-wise to make this set perform the most natural and the most efficient for you. Regardless of the quality and performance of the ideal shaft in your set, it is imperative that you make sure that all of the other club specifications are optimal to avoid unnecessary compensations, manipulations, etc.

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi Mark,

I have been extremely pleased with the TaylorMade RAC wedges you recently
reshafted with the 1050GH S shafts.  As you know, I have been playing the
original RAC Lt irons with the 1050GH S’s for about four years.  I am going to
be trying out some new r7 irons and would like to hear about the new 999GH
shafts and how they compare to the 1050GH’s.    Thanks, Terry

ANSWER: Hi Terry, I’m very glad to hear that you are having such success with our products. The entire Nippon Shaft family, from our engineers, to our sales representatives, to our manufacturing staff, to our installation centers, love to hear comments from our users- our extended Nippon Shaft family.

We have not published any information about the release of our new NS PRO 999GH model so you are getting the first bit of news. This model is a very unique product that combines the specialty shaft engineering, materials and heat treatment processes that Nippon Shaft has pioneered, and a shaft designed for, and to be exclusively offered through, our Authorized Installation Centers in the U.S. and Canada. The shaft model will be offered in many variations of flexes, lengths, and tip diameters, to allow installation into any brand name iron set.

The NS PRO 999GH model offers a shaft model that enhances speed in the longer irons and hybrid models, (which is necessary for consistent distance), and enhances feel and stability in the shorter irons, (which is necessary for consistent control). Coupled with a visually stunning finish, and the premium Nippon Shaft hit sensation, the Nippon Shaft NS PRO 999GH is best described as “Body Interactive”.

Without changing the flex characteristics or the flight dynamics, our goal is to provide a shaft that interacts with the body’s core muscles to achieve speed where it is needed in the longer irons, and control where it is needed in the scoring clubs.

The shaft is on the high end side of things on both performance and price, (the shaft will carry the highest price tag for a steel iron model), and will be available at the beginning of 2008. The prototype set is finished and we are testing these models as we write.

Because the 999GH is an exclusive model within our Authorized Installation Network, you will only see photos and specifications on this website. Please check back soon.

Best regards, Mark
 

QUESTION: Hi, The last set of irons my clubfitter put me in 1050 X’s — good irons but they went a little high for me.  I’m thinking about putting 1150’s (don’t think they
were out when I got the 1050s) in my new set.  Can you tell me how the 1150s
compare to 1050s in terms of ballflight and flex?  I’m thinking about 1150s in
X, but perhaps softstepping them once to soften/bring ball flight down slightly. 
I’m worried that a stiff would be too soft, and wouldn’t hardstepping raise the
flight (which I want to avoid)? My swingspeed with a driver is 100-105.  Any
help would be appreciated. Mitchell

ANSWER: HI Mitchell, The short answer is that most likely you will lower your ball flight with a switch to our 1150GH Tour shaft model.

The shaft EI curve, (my best description of EI curves - these are relationships of the stiffness of a given shaft along its length), of the 1150GH shows a very similar patter to the 1050 model in the middle section of the shaft, but in both the tip and butt portion, the 1150 is quite a bit stiffer. For most golfers, this will result in a lower ball flight.

I typically break things down into two areas regarding shafts- how the shaft responds when the golfer puts it in motion, and how the golfer responds to a shaft in motion. This second part- how a golfer responds to the flex, weight and geometry of a shaft is the interactive part of things and can only be determined through live testing. I would start with the 1150GH Tour in a similar flex as your 1050 model. By switching to the 1150 you will be adding weight and a different shaft geometry and should notice quite a bit of difference. If the 1050 shaft as installed in your irons has always felt a bit loose, or too flexible, then you might also consider changing the flex as well.

We offer the 1150 in plenty of variations to achieve any sub-flex that you are looking for.

With regards to what result will you get with the suggested changes? - because of the above statement- that the golfer is sensing the club in motion and interacting with the club, it is difficult to definitively say what your results will be. However, I still believe that your first choice is to move in the direction of the 1150 model in a similar flex.

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: I have a set of Adams Idea Pro irons with True Temper Black Gold
regular shafts. I’m 57 yrs. old currently with a 2.9 index. I’ve
been playing golf since I was 12 yrs old. Recently I’ve been toying
with regular shafts in various sets of iron setups. I’ve played the
Callaway X-16 tour model irons with the Nippon 950 regular shafts for
the last 5 years but have lost consistency. I really like these shafts
and I am leaning towards the 850 shafts. Do you think stiff or regular
shafts would be a better fit? My driver swing speed is in the 93 - 99
range. I’m currently hitting a Callaway FTI. 9 degree driver with a
Speeder 586 stiff shaft that I’m having success with. Thanks. Bruce

Mark. I forgot to tell you that I absolutey cannot hook the True
Temper Black Gold regular shafts. My ball flight is a fade with a loss
of distance. I’ve hooked the ball my entire life!

Maybe 950 or 850 in stiff shaft? I really don’t notice any difference inthe weight of either the True Temper Black Gold shaft vs. the 950 Nippon, however I did find out that theBlack Gold has a high/medium kick point.with a medium torque ( whatever that means ). I can tell you that I think I’ve tried to slow my swing down to accommodate the regular shaft - maybe a timing thing. The current thinking in Northern California, among the best Senior players are lighter shafts to accommodate old muscles or lack of flexibility and bad backs, accompanied by over length ( 1/2 to 1 inch ) shafts. Maybe this thinking isn’t correct. Let me know you thoughts. Bruce

 
ANSWER: Hi Bruce, First of all, if you have lost consistency with your 950 Set, it is almost certainly too light or too flexible.

My initial take is that the set is too flexible. The kiss of death is when a golfer utters words like, “I feel like I have to accommodate my swing to get these shafts to work”. Compensation, adjustment, manipulation, conforming, are terrible words when it comes to describing your equipment and swing interaction. Let’s replace them with uniformity, power, efficiency, comfortability and natural motion.

I think that many golfers moving along in age should consider trying lighter shaft models of varying degrees, but they do not need to adjust the flex of their clubs in a softer direction. This typically makes the clubs play more erratic, followed by a period of adjusting your swing to make up for the shaft flex.

The fact that you are playing with a lighter and stiff driver shaft may be some indication that your iron shafts need to be stiffer. There is a very crazy notion, (extremely unscientific) that older golfers or less powerful golfers need a more flexible shaft. True for some, but the real answer is that older golfers require a wide range of flex needs from really flexible to really stiff depending on how they deliver the club and how their bodies interact with the geometry of the shaft.

You might try having one of your irons installed with a 950 model in a stiffer flex.

If you need a recommendation for an Authorized Installation center in your area, please write back. Best regards, Mark
 

QUESTION: Mark-
I am a 6 handicap with a rythmic swing (not a hard-charging swing).  I’m 31 and
pretty athletic but don’t swing out of my shoes.

I’m currently hitting MP-60’s with S300 Dynamic Golds.  I’m considering
re-shafting after the season to something just slightly softer.  My trajectory
is about right on, maybe a bit low but not much.

What might you recommend I consider? Derek

ANSWER: My best advice is “ALWAYS SEEK LIVE TESTING!” I scream this because you learn so much if you are able to compare and contrast different shaft geometries.

Based on what you write, I would certainly experiment with and/or consider a lighter shaft model. 125 grams is very heavy for most of us, and if you do not possess such a hard-charging swing, there may be great benefit in looking for a lighter, premium model.

A clear change would be to drop 20 grams into our 1050 model. Many golfers love this model and it is available through our Authorized Installation Centers in 66 variations of lengths, flexes and tip diameters. A more dramatic change to consider is our 95 gram, state of the art, award winning NS PRO 950GH model.

One warning- if you are used to a heavier shaft model, you may find that your swing has adjusted to it, and you might find it dificult to play with a lighter weight.

Best of luck on your search and best regards, Mark

QUESTION: I am very interested in the NS PRO 100 equipped Titleist 775cb.
I have had the opportunity to hit the NS PRO stiff only.  The ball flight was
good but not having the opportunity to hit the regular flex, I am uncertain. 

My current set of shafts is Callaway uniflex in the X-14s. 
My carry with a 6 iron in the Callaway is 155-160.. The ball flight tends to
balloon just a little bit with this set up.

Can you help me decide between the NS PRO 100 stiff or regular? 
Driver carry is 240.  7 iron is 150, 8 iron is 140.

Can you help me with a suggestion based on your experience? 
NS PRO in Reg or Stiff?  or Tri Spec steel in regular or stiff? 

Thanks!  TigersWinBig

ANSWER: Hi Tigers, Based on your having general success with a stiff flex in the Titleist irons and also on the bit of ballooning on the R/S shaft in your other irons, I think you will play more confident and efficient with an S flex.

The question of the ideal type of shaft, weight of shaft, or geometry of shaft is such an interactive one and requires live testing. If however, you feel that one of the shafts you have tested gives you solid feel, good distance, consistent control and trajectory, and you are able to sense where the club is during your swing, you have all the answers and I would run to pay for that shaft.

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi, Two questions on Nippon Shaft models: I recently had a set of Mizuno irons reshafted with NS PRO 950GH shafts (.355 taper with 1/2 inch added length).  When regripping, I noticed that the irons were assembled starting with a 40 inch
shaft for the 3i.  There is conflicting info on the web about the recommended
raw shaft length for a set of irons (39 or even 38.5 for a 3i).  I am concerned
that the flex has been seriously compromised by Mizuno’s choice of shaft
lengths–soft stepped by as much as a full flex interval (from an R to an A). 
Before contacting Mizuno, I want to get additional recommendations.

The second question is about the Nippon N.S. Pro Putter shaft (XXIP-C2 and D2). 
I have a putter that uses an over the hosel .355 shaft.  The inner shaft tip
diameter is critical for installation.  Is there any difference in the shaft tip
wall thickness bewteen the C2 and D2.  I know this is normally not the critical
dimension, but any info would be helpful in making a selection.  Thanx very much
for any info you can provide–Jim

ANSWER: Hi Jim,

Fear not. Your answers lie in the next couple of paragraphs.

First, regardless of what is posted on the web, most golfers know way more about their taxes, their cars, and their bodies, then they understand about their golf equipment. Yet they know enough to consult an accountant, a mechanic, and a doctor when they have questions.  In golf, there is so little education on golf equipment and golfers are not aware of the quality fitters and clubmakers in the industry, that so many golfers often look for advice from the best player in their group, or the cashier at the big-box golf store or even the web. OUCH!

We manufacture 100’s of variations of our 950 series for different applications, including, step patterns, geometries, weights, tip diameters and flexes. These variations are required for the different OEM head designs, head weights, bore depths, hosel diameters, and the overall fitting and installation needs of each company around the globe.

Do not get sucked into the trap of reading into a label, (40.0″ R), and assume that it means solely one thing. Labels mean nothing, (especially the raw labels printed on the shaft butt section). Most likely in your case, the Mizuno company has chosen one of our most basic 950 variations, using our 950GH model that is manufactured with extra length in the butt section which gives their custom department added flexibility in building a variety of length clubs while maintaining very specific flexes. Please understand that raw labels are not solely indicative of a clubs flex or playability. I can install two variations of our 950 model, one that reads 40.0″ on the butt, one that reads 39.0″ on the butt, install them to the same bore depth, butt trim them to the same length, and they will play identical. Yet these butt numbers look so different??

If you look at the first step of the shaft, closest to the hosel, and are able to compare that with the 950 shaft variation that is installed by our Authorized Installation Centers, you will see that things look the same- despite the difference in shaft label numbers.

Based on the shafts that the Mizuno company orders, their hosel bore designs, and what you are communicating, and what I have seen of their custom shaft installations of our shaft models, they are installing our models in very traditional flexes.

The larger question for me is- “How are they playing?” If you are changing the grips- I assume that they are in your bag and they are going well. 

Regarding your question about the inner diameter of our taper putter shafts. The rate of the opening changes depending on the length of your hosel stem, and I must ask you to contact one of our Authorized Installation Centers to help you with this project.

Best regards, Mark