QUESTION: Hi,

Can I fit a spare 990GH shaft into a Maruman Conductor? I know these are
designed for bore-through hosels and for Cally’s but how much would it affect
performance if I put the 990’s into the Conductors??? Would it work? RGT

ANSWER: Hi RGT,

This is kind of like having a Chevy race car and a Lexus part. You could find a way to adapt the the Lexus part, but most likely it will be an odd fit with odd performance.

Different hosel diameters + different head weight requirements + different shaft designs = a lot of effort to install a shaft that will give awkward results. You will have to alter the hosel, choose if you want to alter the tip dimension for flex purposes, (but this will change the intended balance point), and then depending on the head weight, you might have to cope with a heavier, unbalanced swingweight, or adjust the length to a functional swingweight, and alter your address position into a less than athletic balance.

In most every case, the serious method is to first set the performance goal you desire, and then select the components to achieve your goal. There is nothing wrong with tinkering and having a bit of fun, but attempting to take existing parts that are not designed for each other typically causes performance problems.

Regards, Mark

 

QUESTION: Hi,
I am a 45 year-old, 2.3 index, who is 6′3″, 210 pounds, and I was fitted 2 years
ago for my irons (Taylor Made RAC LT’s), and play Dynamic Gold S300 shafts, 1″
longer than standard.

While I have no reason to believe this shaft isn’t right for me, I have yet to
talk to another player with an index less than 5, my height or taller (i.e. >
6′3″) who plays with shafts 1″ longer than standard.  I’ve also noticed that
many good players use the X-shaft rather than the S-300, which brings me to my 2
questions:

1.  Would you agree with 1″ longer than standard?  My wrist-to-ground
measurement is normal, 39″
2.  Other than a lower ball flight, would the X-shaft provide any other
differences, such as distance, shot dispersion, etc.?

Many thanks for your reply, Mike

 
ANSWER: Hi Mike, 

It is natural that we compare ourselves, our swings, our builds, and our abilities to other golfers in an effort to learn about our games and our equipment. However, it can also be a trap! If Paul Azinger adjusted his grip, and Jim Furyk adjusted his swing according to the norm, I believe that we would have never heard of them. They found their natural, efficient mechanics, and thus their success, because they found their true grip and their true swing.

Regarding your individual situation, please remember the following;

-RULE #1 - choose your equipment and equipment specs based on what gives you the best performance- which is achieved by finding your most natural, efficient swing, and your natural ball flight, devoid of the need for adjustment and compensation.

-There are many golfers playing +1″ long, or longer because they want to achieve Rule #1

-There are golfers playing with a standard length, off the rack set, because this is how they learned the game. Eventhough they might find better performance with a longer set, they have never had guidance in this area, and find themselves, “making things work with what they got”. Some of these golfers would have a difficult time learning a new swing geometry, and should not change, but some would have a huge performance leap.

-Not every golfer who is 6′3″ or more is built the same. Some golfers have longer arms or shorter torsos or longer legs or thicker bodies, thus they will require different equipment specifications.

So to answer your questions-

#1 - The only true method of accurate measurement is live testing. Choke down on your clubs and hit a few shots, grip them normal and hit a few shots, and if possible, grip them longer and hit a few shots. If your shot are more solid, if it seems easier and more efficient, if your swing feels better, if your trajectory is more consistent, or if your swing coach says you are swinging more efficiently…, these are all indicators that a specific length is closer to optimum for you.

We know that a club that is many inches longer or shorter will absolutely throw your swing off balance, result in less solid contact, and erratic ball flight. It should be your task to search for the most efficient performance with varying club lengths. Maybe you will find that +1.5″ is even better than your current set.

#2 - Don’t assume that your trajectory will automatically be lower, or better or anything. The most COMMON thing about us human golfers is that we react DIFFERENTLY to shaft geometries. Some will feel a stiffer flex and fall back at impact in an effort get the shaft to flex and thus achieve a higher trajectory. Others will stay down through impact and swing harder and achieve a lower trajectory.

My best recommendation is to have a test club made up or have one of your irons temporarily altered and find the results through live testing. This is how every tour player approaches these questions. This is the approach I recommend because this is the definitive path to performance verification. 

Regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hello,

I currently own a set of Mizuno MP-57’s w/ 5.5 Project X
shafts. I was recently playing with a friend that had the
same irons that he ordered from Mizuno w/the stock 
graphite shafts in stiff. I had a chance to hit them & 
fell in love with the smooth, almost buttery feel of 
those clubs. I am now on a mission to have my irons 
reshafted with graphite shafts & I was told my new 
shafts had to be taper tipped. or my club heads would
need to be rebored.  What are my choices in after market
taper tipped graphite shafts.  Thanks, Gabe 
ANSWER: Hi Gabe,
It is very important to realize that the shaft geometry of 
the set you tried worked very well, and another graphite
might not do so well, performance-wise and feel-wise.
You have several options. I would first contact the Mizuno 
Company. Depending on the your specifications and needs, 
the most simple installation and highest performance may
be accomplished through the factory. 
I am a big believer in playing with the actual shaft 
geometry that you tested, versus trying a different
shaft geometry that happens to be in a similar category.
Contact the Mizuno Company and ask them if your head will 
support the same graphite shaft installation as your
friend’s set, and if they can do the installation.
The other option is to contact one of our Authorized 
Installation Centers. They have relationships with most
every shaft manufacturer, and can offer you all of the
graphite choices for your MP-57 irons.  
If you do not like either of the above options, you can
always order a new set to the same specs as your friend’s 
set, and sell your existing set to defray the cost.
Best regards, Mark
 

QUESTION: Mark, looking at the Callaway site, listed for the X-Forged irons is a 990 iron uniflex shaft, I can not find any specs for this.  Can you help? looking at
getting a new set, my X-Forged irons are now Project X 5.5 flighted.  Jim

ANSWER: Hi Jim,

Since you are already in this section, just enter 990 in the search box and scroll through some of the headings and you will have several postings on the NS PRO 990 that we manufacture for the Callaway Company. Regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi,

I have a set of Hogan Apex Edge Pro’s and I want to buy a set of NS PRO 1050GH, but I can’t find a stockist either in UK or US who knows what to sell. Can you
please help?

Thanks, Peter

 
ANSWER: Hi Peter,

I am assuming you are asking about the tip diameter of your Hogan set, which, unless it has been altered during its life, is a standard .355 taper hosel.

I strongly urge you to enlist the aid of a skilled clubmaker in helping you achieve the installation and performance you desire. Our 1050GH model and your Hogan iron set are both premium materials, however, the great variable is your fitting and installation needs.

Between the golfer and clubmaker, you can achieve a consistent installation with regards to bore-depths, swingweight, equalized grip sizes, and any flex or sub-flex that you require.

Many golfers in opting to install a set of shafts believe that knowledge of the tip diameter is the only hurdle that they need to overcome. Yet, it only makes sense that if they lack the knowledge of the hosel construction on a set, maybe there are other building variables that are unknown that will make large performance disadvantages. 

If you are in the UK, please check out www.cqigolf.com for more information.

Best regards, Mark

 

FOLLOW-UP QUESTION: So if I order a set of these shafts, will they fit my Hogan heads, Thanks, Peter

FOLLOW-UP ANSWER: Hi Peter,

I think you are asking what words to use to order a set of shafts to go into a set of Hogan heads that are most likely a .355 taper tip hosel. Is this correct?

If in fact your heads have not been altered, and you know the flex you require, and you know the general length, etc., then you are going to order a set of shafts for a taper tip hosel.

However, I am asking you to go beyond the first step of taper tip? or parallel tip? I am urging you to connect with an Authorized Center. In this manner, you will receive the best possible service and the best possible performance.

In the UK, go to www.cqigolf.com for contact information for our European agent, and for a list of our fitting and installation centers.

In the US, go www.shaftology.com and click on the Center Locator for information regarding our independent clubmaking shops.

We manufacture our NS PRO 1050GH model in 66 different raw shafts for taper and parallel hosels, R, S, and X flexes, and lengths from 40.0″ to 35.0″. Which exact raw shaft depends on your flex needs, the depth of your hosel, the diameter of your hosel, and your flex or sub-flex needs.

If you have any problems with any of our centers, please do not hesitate to contact CQI in the UK or myself in America.

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION:

Hi, I am James. And, I have read through your Q&A which is very useful and
helpful. I would like to get your advice.
I am playing Mizuno MP-30(Tour Velvet grip,1degree upright lie angle,3-PW,Dynamic
Gold R300)for over 4 years now. When I had an opportunity to custom fitting
session of Munuzo National Fitting Centre in UK, here is the details as below
(handicap-15,left handed,6 iron, average figures / 5 shots out of 10 shots
removing bad shots and best shots,Unit-yds/degree/mph).

Carry-167.8/Roll-9.0/total-176.8/ball_speed-113.0/Lanch_angle-17.3/desc_angle–39.4/back_spin-4295/club_speed-81/side_spin-1015/side_angle-(-)0.2

I am under consideration buying new sets of irons of Mizuno MP-52 or MP-57.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have a chance to live test with N.S.PRO shaft which was
not available for lefty at that time.

What I would like to try is
-> Don’t want to change a lot of my swing
-> Want to try N.S.PRO 1150GH Tour or other N.S.Pro shaft
-> a little bit higher launch would be better for better distance

I don’t know much about the technology or science, but under this circusmtance,
what shaft would be best or better option if I really want to change the shaft
from Dynamic Gold R300 to N.S.Pro?
I have tried Cobra iron with N.S.Pro1030 R and S(I think), BOTH are quite good
feeling. Pls advise.

ANSWER: Hi James,

If you read through some of my posts, then you know that I believe in live testing. Since this is the format that we will be using our clubs, in a live format, this only makes sense. However, I understand your plight, especially being lefthanded. Testing options in most every corner of the world are limited, and even moreso with lefties.

If possible, your best option is to purchase your best guess, such as a Mizuno 6 iron, built to your specs and test the club for yourself. Obviously this is a risk, but less risky than buying a complete set.

Regarding shaft flex, choose the flex that you have had success with in the past. If you tested the 1030 in R and S, which did you like best? What flex have you found to be the most natural for your swing?

If you want a bit higher trajectory, our NS PRO 1050GH is a good option. If the 1030 models felt too light, you might consider our NS PRO 1150GH Tour.

Regarding your launch data, these are only to be used as comparative data- meaning if you have a couple of sets of data for two different shaft specifications, you can use the data to help define the better performing shaft. However, it is not a good idea to use this data in a predictive manner, meaning, the data says ‘X’, so your shaft should be ‘Y’. This predictive method is subject to random success with regards to shaft fitting.

QUESTION: Hello,
I just recently purchased a set of Titleist 695CB irons w/ NS PRO 970 Reg flex
shafts. Normally I play a heavy DGS300. My swing speed with a 5 iron is 85mph,
105mph with driver. However, I really like the tip weighting on the 970. Feels
incredible. I can’t find the flex/swing speed charts for this shaft on the
internet. So I hope you can help me. I’m a smooth swinger, smooth transition,
late loader, with an average tempo. I also hit the ball very high and usually
end up high bend point shafts. Is the Reg or Stiff flex 970 appropriate for my
swing speed and shaft loading profile? Or is the Super Peening Blue the better
option? If so what flex? Blanco

ANSWER: Hello Blanco,

After testing thousands of golfers with different shaft types, it becomes apparent very quickly that different golfers perform best with different shaft models, and different shaft flexes, even though they have the same swing speed.

If you search the internet for swing speed charts for the 970 shaft model…, you will be looking for a long time since they don’t exist.  Most of these guides are for marketing purposes anyways.

Since you already have your set in your hands, and like the feel, this is a good indicator that you have found a good combination. Also, this model, which has slightly more weight in the tip of the shaft is considered a high kick model.

Regarding the ideal flex- if you like the feel of your set, like the trajectory of your set, and do not find yourself adjusting your swing to match up with the shaft flex, then you have the right flex.

The serious method of determining optimum shaft flex is to answer the following questions; Do I hit the ball with a good trajectory?  Do I achieve consistent face contact? Does the shaft feel good? Do I swing in a natural manner, without the need to adjust the pace of my swing?

What are the answers to these questions? Regards, Mark