QUESTION: Hi Mark,

I am looking at purchasing a set of Cobra FPII irons with a steel shaft and have
a choice between the Cobra Nippon 1030H and the Cobra Nippon 900XH.  What is the
difference? VD

ANSWER: Hi VD,

These two models are exclusively made for the Cobra Golf Company. Both are premium, ultralite steel shaft models with the 900XH being a bit lighter than the 1030H model. Both are mid to hi launch models. The ‘H’ stands for ‘High’, and the ‘XH’ stand for ‘Extra High’.

If possible, the best method to determine differences is to locate a Cobra Dealer with test clubs and hit each model. Each specific shaft was selected to pair with the specific head, which is why it is so important to feel the impact and see the flight.

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hey Mark,

I recently went to a Taylor Made fitting lab and was impressed but still a little
unsure of what shaft I need.  I’m 6′ 4″ and thin body type and have a longish,
smooth rhythm swing. I’m around a 2 handicap and the computer had my swing topped
out at 112 and ball speed in the 160’s. Launch angle was around 11-14 and spin
above 3000 everytime.  The spin rate is what I’m most concerned with for I feel
it should be more like 2300-2500 for me, right?  The fitter recommended a UST
shaft, X flex, tipped 1″ in a Taylor Made Burner head. The shaft specs say its a
mid/high kick.  The shaft I have now is an old Grafalloy Pro-Lite and I know it
has a mid/high kick.  The problem is I’m on a golf team and we have a deal with
Titleist, and I know they have that long hosel on their woods which I think
affects the shaft stiffness.  Being left handed I don’t have the options of
trying the shafts I need.  Should I consider a high kick shaft or still tip the 
UST 1″, even though it would be in the Titleist head?  What should I do? Any
advice is much appreciated!
Thx, Alex

ANSWER: Hi Alex,

Please don’t take my reply in a wrong way- your question is actually right on.

OK, here goes…

If any person outside the golf community reads your question, they would think you’re crazy. After all, you go to a fitting for the purpose of finding the best performing driver and then ask questions about a completely different club, with basically no chance of testing the club to see if it will work.

This is the state of our golf community.

First, do not get too hung up on the spin numbers. If you feel like you are spinning the ball too much, (in real play), meaning the ball off your driver is floating a bit in the air and you get zero to little run out, then you might consider a swing change or an equipment change with regards to your driver. If you want to lower spin, you need to alter how you deliver the driver to the ball, (this typically means a more positive angle of attack), or choose a less spinning golf ball, or choose a less spinning driver head.

I am not recommending any of these changes as there may be a downside to your performance. You must first consult a swing coach and/or skilled clubfitter.

Next, the question of the specific head recommendation. Did you hit the combination recommended? Or is the recommendation based on a predictive analysis? Predictions are easy to make. But if backed up by an iron clad warranty, they usually are closer to reality. If your Taylor Made fitter will warranty the recommendation and keep building clubs until you get the performance you are promised, this might be the least expensive route.

Finally, I would not get to crazed trying to figure out the building variations of a Taylor Made head and a Titleist head that probably will act different, on a combination that you might not have even tried, based on a predictive estimate to begin with.

If I was a lefty golfer looking for the best performance, and was not sold on the Taylor Made Fitting recommendation, and had a special going with Titleist products, and felt like I was a high spin golfer, I would choose the lowest spinning Titleist driver head, and seek out a quality clubfitter and ask your questions. Show them what you have used in the past, what your goals are, your new Titleist club, and ask their recommendation for a new shaft model.

This approach makes the most sense and has real potential of actually gaining the most performance for your tee shots.

Our golf equipment world is indeed filled with craziness, but if you use a bit of common sense, you will find some clarity.

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi,

Before I buy a set of Callaway FT Irons, please speak to any noticable
performance expectations/advantages I might gain, given the options of either
the Nippon NS 990 or Nippon NS 1100 “uniflex steel” shafts.

For whatever it’s worth in terms of additional information, I am pretty much a
“standard” fit, in terms of lie angle and shaft length, and I hit my current
“Cleveland TA 7″ #5 iron (w/ True Temper Sensicore shafts) about 160 yards. I’m
looking for a little more distance. Thanks, Leo

 

ANSWER: Hi Leo,

These are questions for a live fitting session. My best suggestion is to find a skilled fitting professional to aid in your quest to test and compare different shaft options versus your current set.

First- One of your stated goals is to gain some distance- which may be accomplished by going to a lighter set. I suggest looking at the True Temper and Callaway sites and locating the shaft weight information for your current set and for the 990 and 1100 models. The flip side of this is- if you like the overall weight of your current shaft, going lighter may cause inconsistency and misdirection.

Next- Dialing in the proper flex may also aid you in your distance quest and help you with the efficiency of your golf swing. Uniflex is generally a rating between and R and S flex. If your current set feels too stiff, this is the right direction to go. As a general rule, ALWAYS choose the flex you have had success with.

The geometry of the shaft also needs to be tested in a live format. I would urge you to find a Callaway fitting cart or a Callaway Opti-fit Center and let your body and game answer these important questions for.

My answer to most every fitting question is - “live, interactive, comparative testing”. After 20,000 fitting sessions, and working with all level of golfers, it is the only accurate fitting method that I know of. I can report my sensations with these shafts, but these are merely anecdotal- meaning no basis in fact.

Find a fitter, find a cart, find an Opti-Fit Center, find a range, ask all of your questions, and find your best fit.

Regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi Mark,

I am looking at purchasing a set of irons that come stock with the Nippon N.S.
PRO 950GH shafts. I do not know if I need regular or stiff flex. My driver swing
speed is 96mph and I usually will hit my 7 iron 160 yards. Can you offer a guide
based on this information? Any help you can provide would be greatly
appreciated.

Lance

ANSWER: Hi Lance,

Shaft selection is based on three major factors of weight, geometry, and flex. The 950 model is an ultralite steel shaft model, (95 grams), a mid kick model, (giving a mid to high launch), and is available in a variety of flexes.

So, if you like the idea/performance of a 95 gram shaft with a mid/hi launch, then choose a flex that you have had general success with in the past.

If your swing and body prefer a different weight and geometry than the 950 model, you will have little success regardless of the flex chosen. Often, golfers who struggle with our lighter models proclaim that these models must play soft compared to other shaft models. However, these golfers are in error. If you fit the weight and geometry of our 950GH shaft, you will have more success if you base your flex choice on your past history versus some kind of speed rating.

The golfers who have followed this path love our 950 model and have made it the world’s leader in its category.

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi, I have a set of Ping Raptures. My ball flight is way too high. I have 6 iron
swing speed 82-85 mph. My current shafts are graphite stiff Pings. What would be
the proper size tip and taper for Ping Raptures? ( non - V2). What do you think
would be a good shaft for these irons? Ping offered the AWT or ZZ65 when sold.
What about a flighted shaft?
Thanks, Don

ANSWER: Hi Don,

Of course the best remedy is to connect with a serious clubfitter who could assess your needs via comparative testing of different head and shaft models.

You may find out that your swing dominates the trajectory of your shot. You may find out that the graphite shaft and flex you are using is sending the ball high into the air. Or you may find out that the head of your current set is causing all the problems. You may even find out that all 3 of these factors are major contributors to your trajectory.

Beyond a definitve assessment, you are faced with a guess, and any shaft recommendations I can give without testing and measuring will be pure guesses. Other options include attending a demo day this spring, or finding a driving range with a Ping fitting cart. 

The reality is that most golfers who desire to hit the ball low are not going to choose a graphite shaft and a Ping Rapture head. However, maybe there are other reasons that make this combination a good performer. You may hit the ball lower with some of the shafts you suggest, but maybe you won’t hit these as far or as consistent. So, get out and hit some clubs outdoors, find and compare different head/shaft options, and consider seeking out a serious fitter.

Please write again if needed. Regards, Mark  
 

QUESTION: Hi,

I have I-10 Ping set and looking to change my shaft to a lighter one. Which one 
would you strongly recommend, the NS-Pro 750 or 950? JV

ANSWER: Hi JV,

The answer to your question depends on A) your existing set, and B) what works best for you.

If you went to a serious clubfitter, they would want to know the specifications of your existing set, what goals you are looking to achieve with a new set, and finally, they would ask you to test and compare different specifications and measure if you are getting closer to achievement of your stated goal.

What I strongly recommend is finding a serious clubfitter and have these questions answered in a skilled manner.

OK- back to your question;

If you are using a heavy traditional steel shafted I-10 set, then the NS PRO 950 model would feel quite a bit lighter. If you are using a light weight steel set, maybe the 850 or 750 would be great choices.

Another option to consider is to have a couple of shafts changed in your existing set and test them on your own.

Please write back if I can help point you in the right direction.

Best regards, Mark
 

QUESTION: Hi,  I use the Callaway X-14 Irons Pro Series Rifle shaft with Regular Flex and
my 7 iron goes 150-155 yards with it… What would be the ideal shaft flex for
me if I get the Callaway NS Pro 990 X-22 Tour Model?
Hope to hear from you soonest.

Thanks, Carlo

ANSWER: Hi Carlo,

You do not comment as to how well you like your existing shaft in your X-14 set.

If you like the R flex and have always performed well with iron shafts in an R flex, then I strongly recommend that you continue to use R flex iron shafts.

As always, if you read through several of these postings in our Q&A section, you will find that your ultimate fitting destination to get the most fun out of your set is via live comparative testing.

Best of luck on your search.

Regards, Mark
 

QUESTION: Concerning your taper tip 1050GH S flex model..,

…please confirm these shafts are frequency matched.  

I am in the process of building a set of irons and want the

flex to be on the soft side of stiff….please confirm the

butt trimming instructions to obtain this result (a small

increase in the length of the club is acceptable).  

Thank you for your help. Mike 

ANSWER: Mike,

Your statement/questions are in conflict. 

If a set of shafts or clubs are said to be frequency matched,

this means that there is a uniformity with regards to flex.

To answer this first question- YES, if a set of 1050 shafts

is installed in a uniform manner with respect to length,

swingweight, bore depth, club lie, etc., and assuming that

you have a “set” of authentic 1050GH shafts, then you will

have a set of irons that is frequency matched.

Regarding the second question of how to achieve a soft ‘S’,

no amount of butt trimming will help you in your quest. You

first need to factor in all of the above specifications of 

swingweight, length, club lie, hosel geometry, and the

individual raw length and raw flex shafts are then chosen

to achieve your desired flex needs.

My best recommendation is to contact one of our Authorized 

Installation Centers for help with your project. Paying

for some good advice will go a long way towards achieving

the performance you desire and eliminate the chance of 

ruining your set. Based on your questions, you need some

practical instructions, and more then this Q&A can provide.

Best regards, Mark
 

QUESTION: Are flighted shafts the best way to have the same trajectory with every club? I notice with my Hogan Apex 4 steel shafts that short irons are very high, mid
irons are medium and long irons are very low. From what I can gather, better
players achieve consistent distance control by hitting each club at the same
trajectory. Therefore a flighted shaft would be the easiest way to achieve the
desired ball flight? Any idea what percentage of your fittings end up with
flighted shafts? What percentage of tour players use flighted? I’ve also tried
Dynamic Gold X-100 shafts and found that they performed similarly to Rifle
flighted models I have tried. Do flighted shafts produce more spin in longer
clubs to achieve the higher trajectory?
PLease advise. Thanks, Luke.

 

ANSWER: Hi Luke,

The general idea behind “flighted” shafts is to adjust the geometry, (in this case, the shaft bend point), so as to adjust the shot height where it is needed.

Since many golfers prefer lower flight in their short irons, and the loft of the club is already helping the shot trajectory, and since many golfers prefer higher flight in their longer irons, and the loft is already not helping the shot trajectory, this is one way to build a set of shafts that is working with the set needs of many golfers.

It very much depends on the individual golfer, the shaft flex, the shaft geometry, and the head geometry- and your history is proof of this. Your existing Apex shafted set is a stiff flex, mid weight steel, uniform low bend shaft geometry, and is producing erratic results. You have also achieved higher flight in your long irons with an X100 model that is stiffer, heavier and a higher bend geometry. These models should be producing the opposite results, so your interaction with these shafts, or the head geometry is causing a different performance. Because of examples like this, it becomes easier to understand why shaft fitting is not predictable, and live, comparative, apples to apples testing is critical to achieve optimal results.

Regarding how many golfers fit into flighted models- a good amount, but it is a low percentage. Most equipment manufacturers and most serious clubfitters achieve trajectory adjustments with the head geometry selection.

Regarding how better players achieve a consistent trajectory with all of their irons- that is an easy question. They adjust their posture and swing and speed to get whatever they need. Better players are also better at making the needed mechanical adjustments. As a result, only a few Tour players use shafts with varying bend points. They also prefer to choose a club that swing the same, but goes different based on the head geometry.

Best regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hi Mark,

I am considering a set of 850GH or 750GH steel shafts

for a set of Ping I10 irons I am about to buy. I will

only be getting the 5-PW (6 clubs) can you tell me what

the shaft length for each club will be. I am only 5′5″

and may need to have each one cut 1/4″, but would like

to know what the standard length of each will be before

making that decision. Thanks, DD

 

ANSWER: Hi DD,

If you visit the Ping Website and look under the length

specifications you can view the “standard” iron lengths

for Ping irons. Yet, these numbers have no relationship 

for your needs. Your optimal length depends upon your body,

swing, power, etc. Most often, for golfers in your height

range, and depending upon how you swing and interact with

club, you will fit into a traditional length. For the

Ping Company, they list their standard length for a #5

iron club as 37.75″. Of course, there is also a 

probability that you will fit into a shorter set, or

in some cases, a longer set. The best method to determine

this is by hitting and comparing different length models.

Another important fitting component that should be

integrated into your length measurement is your 

proper lie angle. 

With the proper shaft weight and flex, length 

and lie, and the ideal head and swingweight, 

you will swing in the most natural and powerful

manner.

Regarding the raw shaft length of the shaft chosen,

this depends on the flex and/or sub-flex that is 

required for your body, swing and game. 

If I was choosing a set of shafts for a custom 

Ping order of I-10’s, and I was looking to achieve 

for example, a traditional ‘R’ flex in a set of 

NS PRO 850GH irons, I would choose a 37.5″ raw length

shaft for use in the I-10 hosel. 

 

As always, I recommend consulting with a clubfitter

or clubmaker that can act aa a guide in helping you

find the most efficient, fun, powerful set of clubs.

 

Best regards, Mark