Archive for May, 2009

Shaft trimming for NS PRO 850GH?

Sunday, May 31st, 2009

QUESTION: Hi,

Do you tip trim or butt trim the Nippon 850FW to length?

Thanks, SM

 

ANSWER: Hi SM,

This certainly depends on the club, the hosel design and the playability that you choose.

With regards to a driver, a traditional bottom of the bore to the ground measurement, and to achieve the stated shaft flex, all of the trimming is performed on the butt end.

With most fairway metals, with varying hosel geometries, and depending on the flex that you choose, there will trimming required from both the butt and the tip of the shaft.

For specific installation steps for your club, your hosel, and your playing needs, please contact one of our Authorized Installation Centers by clicking on the Center Locator link at www.shaftology.com.

Regards, Mark

Shaft Model and Flex based on Irons?

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

QUESTION: Hello,

I have a set of irons (Bridgestone J36) and 2 hybrids (Mizuno) all of which are shafted with the Nippon NS Pro 1150 Tour in regular flex. These give me great feedback and suit my game.
I now want to re-shaft my 3 wood with a steel shaft and was hoping to get something as near to the 1150 tour as possible. I intend to have the 3 wood as a safety first off the tee club, shafted to 42″ or 42½”.

What can you suggest in a Nippon shaft? My thinking was the 950FW in a stiff flex.

Thanks, Sean

ANSWER: Hi Sean,

I think you are on the right track.

Of course, the only method of determining your shaft needs are by actual testing and comparison, but I will give you the direction to start your search.

Most golfers find that they have success with a shaft weight and flex, slightly lighter and slightly stiffer than their iron shafts. If you are having good success with the weight and flex of your iron shafts, I believe that the NS PRO 950FW shaft in your #3 wood is a good choice.

Regarding the flex selection- if you swing your #3 wood with the same length of swing and with the same pace, you may stay in the same R flex. If you swing a bit faster pace with your #3 wood, you might consider a stiff flex.

Regarding installation- your installer would install, for a traditional hosel design, a 42″ raw shaft length in the 950FW. If you preferred to achieve a flex inbetween an R and an S, your installer could install a 43″ raw shaft length in an S flex.

Regards, Mark

Here are SPECIFIC and GENERAL shaft selection options!

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

QUESTION: Hi Mark,

I would like to ask what Nippon steel shaft you would recommend for a set of
Muira tour blade heads.  My carry distance with a 6 iron is 150 with normal
trajectory.  I would have the shafts cut for proper length.  I am a 3 handicap
presently using Mizuno MP-30 irons.

Thanks, Sliudahl

ANSWER: Hi Sliudahl,

I will give you a choice between SPECIFIC and GENERAL shaft selection.

Your choice of shaft should be chosen by which model performs the best for you. This means- which SPECIFIC model for your given body and swing allows you to swing in the most efficient manner, without compensation, to achieve the best combination of feel, contact, trajectory and distance?

Of course, this question is not easily answered, and certainly is not able to be answered by some kind of mathematical formula. If you are interested in the exact model for you, I strongly recommend that you connect with one of our Authorized Installation Centers and ask for their guidance. Call around and ask if they have different test shafts or interchangeable shafts and head combinations for testing. The new interchangeable combinations offer the best method of determining the right head model / shaft model for you.

In a GENERAL sense, many golfers in your power range have liked our 750, 850, 950 and 1050 models. If you like lighter, choose the 750 or 850. If you like medium-light, chooe the 950 or 1050. The question of flex is also dependent on live testing. If you prefer to guess, choose the flex that you have had success with in the past. All of our specifications for these models are available at www.nipponshaft.com.

Of course, I always recommend a SPECFIC approach. It makes your club perform with more distance, better contact, and allows your body to swing in the most natural, efficient manner, which makes the game more fun.

Regards, Mark
 

Can I replace my lost #4 iron club/shaft with substitute?

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

QUESTION: Hi,

I have a set of NS PRO 950GH and have been enjoying them. 

However, I lost my 4 iron and would like to replace it.  The local clubmaker
told me my set is parallel tip and he only has the step 950 shafts in store.

My clubheads are Miura, so using the .355 shaft should not make much difference
as the clubmake has to drill into the new #4 head anyway.

My question is, should I use this stepped 950 shaft? Is there much difference? 

Thanks in advance.

Patrick

 

ANSWER: Hi Patrick,

I am a bit confused with your question regarding a ”step” shaft, but here is my reply.

My best advice is to always replace your lost club with the exact same specification with regards to shaft model, flex, tip diameter, head, hosel, etc. Why would you settle for anything less than exact?

If the shop does not have your exact shaft in stock, it’s only a phone call away, which means a short delivery time. My thought is that it’s better to be without your club for a short time versus playing with the wrong specification for a lifetime.

Regards, Mark
 

Will Iron Shaft Model Work in a Hybrid?

Tuesday, May 26th, 2009

QUESTION: Hi,

I want to try the NS PRO V90 shaft with my hybrid (Titleist 585h) but, V90 is
designed for irons, and the maximum length (for #2 iron) comes in 39.0″.  In order to
make total 39.5″ length of my hybrid club, could you advise me if the
V90 iron shaft could work with my hybrid?

Thanks, FL

ANSWER: Hi FL,

There is no reason that an iron shaft model and a hybrid model will not work together. However, it is important to match the correct raw shaft length to your head and to your playing needs.

This means that you need the shaft length with respects to the bottom of the bore to the ground measurement, the tip diameter to match up with your hybrid hosel, the raw length to match up with the weight of your head to achieve the desired swingweight, and the overall length and flex to work for your playing needs.

Are you writing from a location within North America? If so, my best recommendation is to contact one of our Authorized Installation Centers as they are able to guide you through these calculations. Regards, Mark

What flex is a UNIFLEX shaft?

Thursday, May 21st, 2009

QUESTION: Hi,

Could you please give the excact specification of your N.S. PRO. shaft? It’s a uniflex. Is that an ‘S’ flex, ‘R’ flex, or ‘S/R’ flex? It’s the best shaft that I have had as a professional all these years. Thanks, Mike

ANSWER: Hi Mike,

I am glad you are enjoying one of our models.

I believe the simple answer to your question is that most companies who install our shaft models and label them as “uniflex” are rated as an S/R flex, meaning a flex between Regular and Stiff.

The more complicated answer is that the actual specification of a given shaft model includes the flex, weight, flight profile, and then the installation specifications regarding head weight, club length, and hosel installation.

For more information on this second paragraph of this reply, many of our shaft specifications are located at www.nipponshaft.com, or at the various equipment manufacturer’s websites.

Regards, Mark 

Will Senior Ultralite Shafts Help?

Wednesday, May 20th, 2009
QUESTION: Hi,
I hit my driver between 230-245 yards and my 7 iron 135-145.
I am using R flex REAX 55 graphite shafts in my Taylor Made
irons. Does Nippon Shaft make senior shafts in an ultra
light shaft weight? If so, will it help? I’m 65, 175 lbs 
and 5′10″. Thanks, Seavey
 
QUESTION: Hi Seavey,
We manufacture a model for most every golfer’s need, which 
typically means offering choices regarding weight, flex,
and flight profiles.
In the category you are inquiring about, we offer models
in both ultralite steel, 90 grams, and ultralite graphite,
50 grams.
Regarding your question of, “will it help?’, this greatly
depends upon your performance goals. Typically, most golfers 
are looking for the best combination of distance, control, 
trajectory, and consistency. Finding the optimal shaft to
enhance all of these can be a daunting task.
If you like your set, and you have good contact, good flight,
and consistent performance, you might have already found
your optimal shaft/head combination. However, if you find
that you go back and forth consistency-wise, it may not be
solely related to your swing mechanics, and may be a 
function of the shaft being too light. Not every golfer
has success with a 55 gram shaft weight.
 
My best recommendation is to connect with one of our 
Authorized Installation Centers that are equipped with 
a variety of test clubs. You may need a lighter shaft, or
you may need a heavier shaft. You may need a stiffer flex,
or possibly more flex. There is no magical chart to know
which is the most efficient. The ONLY method of determining
the optimal combination for you is through live testing.
Regards, Mark   

Finding a shaft for more distance?

Tuesday, May 12th, 2009

QUESTION: Hi,

If I wanted to replace my Ping AWT (R flex) steel shafts with Nippon NS PRO 
R flex 850, what type of performance differences might I expect? I’m 58
years old, a 9 handicapper who carries a 7 iron, with good ball flight, about
130-135 yards. I want more distance with my smooth swing. Will the lighter
shafts help me? Thanks, Anthony

ANSWER: Hi Anthony,

The true answer is that it depends. You may find more distance with a lighter shaft, or you may find that too light of a shaft is hard to feel during your swing and lose control.

Whenever a golfer picks up a new shaft, or club, or even a similar head and shaft, but a different sole design, it is hard to forecast how a golfer will perform. The reason for this is that different golfers react differently to changes in equipment specifications.

If you like lighter weight clubs, the 850 model should give you some extra speed, and therefore more distance. However, if you like the feel of a heavier club, going to our 850 model might just create more inconsistency.

You might consider having an 850 model installed in your #6 or #7 iron and give it a road test to know for sure. You may also consider searching around for a demo day, or fitting center, or a facility with a good supply of fitting carts or test clubs. If you are able to hit quite a few shots with several different shafts, you may find that a certain shaft model, weight and flex gives you the best combination of speed, balance, and center contact.

If at all possible, I would try also to connect with a qualified teacher, and ask them to watch you hit a few different shaft models. Sometimes this is difficult for teachers because they look at you with only “teacher eyes”. But ask them to watch you hit a few and have them tell you which club, in their opinion, allows you to swing with the most power, in balance, with the most efficient swing.

Other definitive methods include finding a skilled fitter and compare shafts on a launch monitor. This can be tricky in that you can fall in love with the speed results, and forget that consistent, center contact is an important part of the equation.

Whenever I am involved in a fitting session, the only method I have found to determine the proper shaft model and flex is via live, interactive, comparative testing of a variety of shaft combinations.

There are dozens of great shaft options in our golf community, and I urge you to spend some time seeking them out and comparing them to find a bit more yardage.

Regards, Mark

 

Are there shaft trimming instructions for my project?

Saturday, May 2nd, 2009

QUESTION: Hi again,

Many thanks for your reply with regards to a 3 wood shaft.  If I was to install
a N.S.Pro Tour X 75g in my 3 wood what would be the tip trimming required to do
so? Thanks, Andy

ANSWER: Hi Andy,

Your question depends on your driver specs, the headweight of your #3 wood, and the hosel geometry of your #3 wood. Since the goal is to achieve similar performance between your driver and #3 wood, the installation needs to have a similar specification relationship. 

To do things right, I recommend a matching relationship of the 75 shaft to your 65 driver shaft, with regards to flex, length, swingweight and balance. 
I typically refrain from quantifying specific installation steps, since this is why we have created our Authorized Installation Center network. However, in order to perform this task, you need to be able to measure your driver specifications with regards to the total length, swingweight, and then a flex measurement that might include a butt frequency measure and a bottom of the hosel to the ground dimension.  Using these measurements, and then measuring your #3 wood weight and hosel, an installer then can do the math to achieve the best possible match.

You may need 0″ tip trim, or a traditional 1″ tip trim, or more, or somewhere in-between. Most golfers who do these projects themselves typically will just guess, which yields erratic results. I recommend that you connect with a skilled installer, bring in your existing driver to have this measured, relate to them your goal, and have them do the installation.

For more information, please go to www.shaftology.com and click on the CENTER LOCATOR link. Regards, Mark



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