QUESTION: Mark,

I recently asked you a few questions about the Super Peening Blue shafts, and
you responded to my question. However, I did not receive a clear response to the
question posed regarding flex. So, here is a little more information so that maybe you can go into a little more detail with your response.

As previously mentioned I am playing Titleist 670 irons with Rifle 6.0 shafts. I
do have a very steep angle of attack and spin the ball a lot. My 6-iron is
95-100 mph with spin around 6500. Off the club the ball starts out with a pretty
good trajectory, but begins to balloon out there about 40-70 yds depending on
club selection.

In your previous response, you said to choose the flex or sub-flex that I have
had success with. Well, the reason for the question is because I am not really
having a lot of success with the current flex I am using.

You should also know that I work at a golf retail store, and get the advantage
of hitting different model shafts and heads all the time. My initial trajectory
is not what I am looking to change, but the balloon once the ball is in mid
flight is. I am curious as to what your suggestion to this will be. So, to
recap…I am not happy with the current choice of shaft, and would really like
to represent your shafts in my bag. Would you please go into a little more
detail than your previous response about shaft selection, flex choice and
whether or not you would suggest a straight install or a soft or hard step???

Thanks so much, Lance

ANSWER: Hi again,

Thanks for replying. I always appreciate the opportunity to reply to an answer of mine that is not clear. 

What I understand is that you are looking to reduce the amount of your “ballooning” ball flight, and are hoping to solve this through the optimal selection of shaft model and shaft flex. My word of caution is not to expect that an iron shaft model and/or flex will cause violent shifts in the rate of spin for your iron shots. But I will do my best to explain a few things about ball flight and shaft flex in depth.

First of all, please understand the most basic of flight laws- what you describe as your initial trajectory- is actually best described as your launch angle, and this will always be low for any golfer that has a steeper angle of attack. If you want less “ballooning”, and more of a “penetrating” flight trajectory, you will actually want a higher initial launch, in order to gain the desired flatter trajectory.

Next, any golfer who has a steeper angle of attack, the result of a golfer delivering the head into the ball at a severe downward angle, will always create a lower initial launch angle, and a higher rate of spin. The effectiveness of the resulting flight will be determined by the geometry of the head design, including the sole design of the club, the bending properties of the shaft, the quality of hit, and the ball speed at impact. The dominant factors in this collision equation are absolutely the angle of attack, and the speed at impact.

For higher speed golfers, this downward attack angle absolutely creates an excessive spin rate, and both swing mechanics, and equipment options, must be chosen to maximize performance.

My best recommendation is to make sure that you are properly fitted with the optimal head design, sole design, offset, club length, shaft weight, shaft design, and shaft flex. Optimally, these should be selected via live testing due to the fact that the best specifications allow our bodies to swing in the most natural and efficient manner, without the need for swing compensations or concessions. With your ability to test and compare different heads and shafts at your store, you have noticed that some heads and shafts feel better than others. This is a result of a model design or weight being more natural and efficient for your body, swing and flight. Go like a laser beam and select the models and specifications that perform the most naturally.

What you want to be careful of is selecting an equipment option, such as shaft flex, to compensate for too severe of an attack angle, or too wrong of a head or sole design. Choosing a stiffer flex than what your swing requires, will help decrease your spin rate, however, the shaft will now feel all wrong, or at least not as right as before the switch. In a competitive playing environment, this “too stiff of a flex to help lower the spin” compensation will prove devastating to your ability to perform.

This goal of our Fitting Q&A is to act as a guide to help golfers find their best equipment, but never to give detailed recommendations. The human element of feel and interaction is a dominant fitting element, and no one exists that is clairvoyant enough to predict what a golfer’s body and swing require. This is kind of like attempting to recommend to someone, exactly how much salt to put on their french fries, times a million.

So, when I recommend to golfers to choose the shaft flex that they have had success with in the past, I am really saying that our Nippon Shaft models have traditional flex ratings, and if you generally like a stiff, or an x-stiff, or even a soft x-stiff flex, then choose that flex. If however, you feel that your shaft flex is too stiff or too flexible, then choose your flex with less stiffness or more stiffness. The unscientific thing however, is to choose your flex based on some mathematical formula, or to choose your flex to compensate for some other performance inefficiency, such as too much spin. This results in a “never being able to get off the merry-go-round” type approach in a never ending search to solve your ball flight with flex, when the real culprit may be your head design or swing mechanics, or even golf ball.

If you have never hit the NS PRO Superpeening Blue shaft model, I would suggest that you contact one of our Authorized Installation Centers, or if your store is so equipped, have one of your Titleist irons installed with the flex that makes the most sense to you, based on your past experience. If your current flex feels to soft, choose a stiffer flex. If your current set feels too stiff, choose a weaker flex. By having a shaft installed in your club, and testing with your golf ball, and to your desired specifications, this now becomes the test club to compare your performance to your existing set. You do not have to calculate bottom of the bore to ground measurements, or the variances caused by the head design or golf ball, or make any other estimations of what the effect will be on the FEEL of the shaft and the FLIGHT of your shots. You only need to compare the actual performance of this test club to your existing shafts. Then, if you are able to find the best combination of feel, consistency, control, and accuracy, with a shaft model, weight, and design, and still have excessive spin and ballooning shots, then you will know that the answer lies in the areas of swing mechanics, head design, or golf ball.

Each year I fit many good, strong players, and see dozens of others at the Demo Day at the Orlando PGA Show in January, all dealing with similar ball flight issues. The golfers who succeed at achieving the most efficient flight, do not do so as the result of learning whether they should install their shafts straight in, or to hard or soft step them. They find their best ball flight when they learn about swing mechanics, learn about equipment options, and understand that the best ball flight is achieved with equipment and a swing that allows them to perform in the most natural, efficient manner.

This can be a long road of learning, but if you follow the guide of a helping witness, you will avoid quite a few obstacles, and find your best performance.

QUESTION: Hi,

I am in the process of buying new irons and the irons that I may select offer
the Nippon Shaft 850GH and the 950GH as shaft options in regular and stiff flex. I
understand that this is a difficult question to answer but hopefully you can help.

I am a left handed, 10 handicap, 57 year old golfer
looking for some game improvment irons with a little more forgivness than the
Titleist irons that I am using now. For the last ten years I have been using the
Titleist Tri-spec steel in regular flex, I understand it is similar to the True
Temper TT-lite at 113 gram weight with a mid bend point giving medium trajectory.
My 5 iron swing speed is consistently 78 mph to 80 mph, and my current 5 iron
frequency is 296 at 37.75 inches. I also have played with clubs with the
Precision rifle 5.0 which frequencies at 316 at 37.75 and I find them a little
to stiff for me. Preferably I would like to have something close to what I have
gotten used to over the years but with less weight like the 950GH’s that are 20
grams lighter. and have a mid bend point providing medium trajectory. I have a
difficult time getting fitted for clubs being left handed, the options available
to try is very limited.
I have read reviews for the Nippon Shafts, and the majority of people that have
tried the Nippons say that they are about 1/2 flex soft. I would like to try a
Nippon 950GH, but don’t know which flex to try. I also see that an “SR” flex is
offered which sounds right for me but the iron manufacturer dosn’t offer the S/R
as an option. I don’t know if you have frequency specifications available but
would like something between 295cpm and 300cpm at 37.75 inch 5 iron. I have seen
RSS for regular at 65 to 75 mph, which might be to flexible, and 75 to 85 for stiff,
which may be too stiff. Any assistance or recommendation would be very much
appreciated. Thank you, Glenn

ANSWER: Hi Glenn,

As the saying goes- “give someone a fish, and they will have a meal that day. Teach that person to fish, and they will have a meal everyday”.

I am going to give you a short course in how to discuss your shaft needs. Yes, it is more difficult for left-handers to test clubs, but the thinking is the same for righty and lefty golfers.

First of all, empty all of the mathematical thoughts of shaft frequencies and recommended swing speed numbers from your brain. These can be helpful as part of an integrated in-house fitting and installation system, but for our discussion, this just creates more confusion and these factors are a road to nowhere. After fitting 20,000+ golfers and answering almost as many on-line queries, it would be a disservice to you if we used these outdated terms.

So- let’s fast forward into the future…

Here’s what we have learned from your note-

1) You have used a mid kick, mid weight shaft, with an ‘R’ flex for a long time.

2) A set of Precision Rifle shafts with a 5.0 label have felt a bit stiff to you.

3) You are 57 years old and are thinking about switching to a lighter shaft model.

Here’s what we haven’t learned from your note-

1) What your primary goal is with a new shaft model- i.e. more distance?, better flight?, more accuracy?, more consistent contact?, better feel?

2) Your performance with your existing set- it is good?, not so good?, how is your distance?, how is flight?, accuracy?, contact?, feel?

3) Shaft weight- Too heavy?, too light?, just right?

4) Live testing- Have you had the opprtunity to test any other shaft models?, have you had the chance to test a shaft that is 20 gram lighter?

Ultimately, all shaft choices should be chosen based on live testing, interaction and comparison.  I strongly urge you to think in terms of the above comments, and then get to a demo day, driving range with test clubs and and/or a fitting cart, or one of these Opti-Fit/Select Fit type facilities. Call ahead to confirm that they have left-handed options available.  The over-riding reason for live testing is that your body must interact with the weight, feel, and flex to learn if your body can respond in a natural, efficient manner, of if it is forced to swing with constant compensation, adjustment and concession. Thinking in this manner represents the future thought of high end club fitting.

Your ultimate destination might be to contact one of our Authorized Installation Centers and inquire as to the fitting and installation services they offer. Their contact information is at www.shaftology.com.

Based on your comment that you want the same medium kick point and the same trajectory,  I am going to assume that you prefer a mid flight trajectory. Regarding the weight of your ideal shaft, if you have had reasonable success with your existing shaft weight, and want to find a bit lighter shaft weight, I am thinking that you fall into more of a choice between our NS PRO 950GH and 1050GH models. You will only know via live testing, but I am quessing that the NS PRO 850GH model will be too light for you. 

Regarding shaft flex, most golfers that comment that Nippon Shaft models are too soft in flex, almost all of these are actually commenting on the weight of the shaft- meaning that they have tried a shaft model that is too light for their bodies and swings. So, my comment is, never base your shaft selection on the comments of golfers about shaft models that do not fit them.  The reality is that our shaft models are accurate with regards to the flex rating, and you should select your flex with confidence knowing that Nippon Shaft has carefully manufactured each of models with a precise flex standard. Based on your information, you probably will have the most success in an ‘R’ flex.

Finally, with regards to your performance goals, most golfers who place distance as their primary goal, will seek out the lightest shaft they can control. For golfers looking for consistency in control and contact, will choose the heaviest shaft that they can still have a good measure of acceleration with. For golfers who want the best combination of control, distance, and feel, it is absolutely imperative to conduct live testing.

For a list of our open models and their specifications, please go to www.nipponshaft.com.

Regards, Mark

 

QUESTION: Sir,

Can you advice a suitable shaft that will serve me with the following personal
data:
Driver distance 240 yards
7 Iron distance 140 yards
Most grateful and Thank you

Bala

ANSWER: Hi Bala,

Basic information like yardages achieved is not a predictor of shaft model or flex. There are dozens of models that might fit your needs.

Here are some options for you to pursue-

Find a demo day, fitting cart, golf shop, golf range, or fitting center, and hit several models. If any of these are not readily available, hit your clubs and some of your friends clubs and compare the differences in feel and the differences in flight.

Do some research on the web- go to the manufacturers shaft sites and compare the different shaft models, weights, and kick points. Our shaft specifications for both our steel and graphite models can be found at

http://www.nipponshaft.com/main.html.

Regarding flex- if you are not able to hit the exact model, choose the flex rating that you have had success with in the past.

Ultimately, your best method of shaft selection is via a live, interactive, comparative fitting assessment in which you can test a variety of length, weight, and flex combinations, so that you can FEEL the shaft with your body and swing and see the FLIGHT that you achieve.

Regards, Mark

 

QUESTION: Hi Mark,

I was fitted with NS PRO 970 shafts approximately 2 years ago and have been
happy with them. I’m preparing to purchase a new set of Titleist AP1’s and am
wondering how the stock shaft (NS Pro 105T) compares to the 970? Thanks, Rick

ANSWER: Hi Rick,

The 970 and 105T models are quite different in weight and geometry.

If you like the lighter weight and mid flight of the 970 model, the 105T might feel a bit clunky to you. Here is a link to the Titleist web site page that describes these two shaft models. You will have to scroll down the page to find these two models info.

http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/shafts_grips/shafts/default.asp?Filter=5

Of course, more important than any web link is the actual feel and flight of a shaft model. I would strongly encourage you to find a Titleist fitting cart, demo day, or fitting center so as to experience and compare these shaft models.

Ultimately, you might consider horizons beyond just a few shaft models.

Regards, Mark

QUESTION: Hello,

I have a set of Cobra FP irons with your 1030 shaft, reg flex.   I have a set of
pull out 950 stiff from a set of Mizuno MX-25. My question is- will the 950 fit
the Cobra FP irons? I would like to reshaft the Cobra’s with the 950 shafts.   
Thank you, Robert

ANSWER: Hi Robert,

I have been in and out of many Tour Vans, Club Shops and even garages, and I have seen most every kind of installation performed, with all kinds of used components. The success rate of these transplant operations has varied from great to awful.

I am guessing that your question is mostly about- “Will these 950 tips fit into my Cobra irons?”

However, in answering the entire question, I would consider all of the following-

-were either of the sets hosels altered?

-what is the tip diameter of these shafts pulled out from the Mizuno set?

-is the bottom of the bore to the ground measurement the same for both sets?

-is the overall length of the used shafts what you are looking for?

-are the head weights heavy enough or light enough for your project?

-have the shafts structural integrity been compromised in any way?

-was the original installation done perfectly?

Most of the time, in these transplant operations, some kind of compromise is usually required, thus I always recommend to start with new materials.

Without having all of the parts in front of me for inspection, it is almost impossible to say if your project will work, but I can say that off the top of my head, I do believe that the two heads are of different weights and different bottom of the bore to the ground measurements, which means that the shafts will play different in the different heads.

I recommend that you connect with a skilled installer anytime you take on a project like this. You and your golf game deserve the very best. Regards, Mark